Ferragamo Spring 2013 Milan Collections

Dios mio! It actually happened; real clothes appeared on a runway before the collections ended for the season.  Signor Giornetti delivered one of the few, maybe only, collection that paid homage to the brands DNA and also gave us “real” clothes, you know the kind, the kind that someone might actually wear and even better … might buy!  I was beginning to think that the Milan collections would end with a thud but Massimiliano saved the day … well sort of.

The beige pieces were anything but beige in personality and the trench theme was employed with great finesse.  I was especially taken with the beige croco dress and several of the trench styles including some on black.  Yes, there was the requisite origami folds of the season which I wish were seen in less quantity as was the amount of black which blurred the season a bit.  I sense a greater leaning  towards more luxe materials which might be a continuation of the resort collection. 

The one feature that I wish had been omitted was the “fishnet” effect that was employed in mid riffs and as sleeves and tops; for me this was a bit cheesy for a collection which has raised the bar for chic in past seasons.  And, if one was to continue to wish, I would have wished for more color as Mr. Giornetti has displayed great skill in infusing color into his collections.

I feel like a beggar who has been tossed a few crumbs now that there is a collection that celebrates wearing clothes and not just staring at them or showing them as if they are only to be observed rather than worn.  So, all in all, this was not Mr. Giornetti’s greatest performance but it sure was worth a bravo or two when compared to what has populated the runways of the past 5 days masquerading as wearable clothes!

http://www.ferragamo.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/TopCategories_31150_35551

Dolce - Gabbana Spriing 2013 Milan Collections

Been there, done that and here we are back in Sicily one more time.  These 2 know a lot about beating a theme to death and today was just another example of their perseverance when it comes to recalling their beloved Sicily.

From the opening exit I had the feeling I had already taken this vacation or maybe it was I had already seen this movie in black and white but there was a distinct gnawing feeling of this being a second or third time around.  The almost photo centric prints were more colorful, the subject more populated with figures but the postcard like feeling was very familiar and maybe it has become part of the DNA for Dolce & Gabbana.

A saving grace for this duo is that they have a sense of humor and playfulness that prevents anyone from taking this all too seriously but … one has to know when to say enough … not that restraint is a word in their vocabulary.  The boys even managed to get in the raffia and basket weaving from the area; some tongue in cheek and some exquisitely embellished.

I understand the prints, the raffia and the colors but what I don’t get is the striped group, the silhouettes and the profusion of repetitive type prints.  I understand that Spring is not a season to flex one’s tailoring skills for ladies but there was none and doesn’t one think that a retail client will only buy one piece maybe 2 from all these prints so what’s the point of it other than shock value.  For me this is a case of shooting oneself in the foot by presenting an over the top collection which certainly lacked any commercial appeal and went for the jugular of media coverage!

Pucci Spring 2013 Milan Collections

Okay here’s the deal, I see this as Bruce Lee meets Ricardo Tisci meets Frederick’s of Hollywood.  Sexy? … yes!  Cheesy? … Yes!  Too blatant? … Yes!  DNA of the house? … Not so much.

So, I get it totally; Spring has never been an easy season for any design house as it is sort of a non-season and based on about 3 days in May when one can actually wear the clothes but MAMA MIA, what is going on in Milan?  Apparently, so many designers have gotten lost on the path to Spring and Mr. Dundas is no exception albeit he does off a few and only a few bright spots.

Peter Dundas re invented the brand with this jet set sexy young edge and yet  this time around we stepped over that edge to almost hookerish rather than the original parameters.  The print selection has completely veered off course and the transparency of the clothes has certainly taken the driver’s seat of this runaway bus.  Surely there are other alternatives to being sexy other than a single layer of georgette or almost gonad exposing lengths.

High point and they really were high points were the transparent cropped and embroidered trench which was exquisite in every way, an all-white column shown towards the end in the seemingly evening segment and then there was the oversized and elongated varsity jacket which sure fit the bill as jet set young and sexy.  The similarity to Tisci’s Givenchy of seasons gone by is surely not an asset nor is the choice of the typical Far East tiger embellishments.  Granted that almost any animal used would have echoed Tisci due to the enormous amount of media coverage and his use in more than one collection but Mr. Dundas is surely more capable than this. 

I am so perplexed as to why a designer would venture towards familiar ground of someone else’s rather than dig back into its own brand DNA for inspiration.  If anything, Pucci was always a beauty of a collection for Spring/Summer with the color palettes and patterning.

Versace Spring 2013 Milan Collections

Well first off the bat, one has to say that Donatella Versace presented a collection that didn’t look like anyone else’s collection.  The problem with this scenario is that I am not sure if anyone would want to take credit for it other than her.

So, here’s the deal, was it sexy...  yes, was it obviously and overtly sexy? … Yes, was it a fabulous collection… no, was it in the Versace tradition? … Sort of and what was with that crinkly wrinkly satinesque fabric?

I am not sure where to start here, the slash and whip stitch lacing affect was worked to death and only sometimes to great effect while the metallic fringe and zipper pieces came off the best, even if there were belly dancer undertones and despite not being exactly the newest of trends.  The color palette was ok but far from the rock em sock em schemes of the past.  Make no mistake that the silhouette was SHORT and by that I mean borderline obscenely short.  The sort of painterly patterning was ok but not really developed but there was a moment of hope when a Medusa head appeared on a red or blue brushstroke pattern … the moment was not long lived!  The wrinkly “unironed”  sleazy looking satinish cloth certainly  cast a “cheap” look to the collection only seconded by what can only be described as Russian oligarch wife/mistress  syndrome; aka come and get it Daddy and oh look I am wearing Versace!  Then of course there were the bleached out Lothar looking color dyed suedes  and I would be remiss if I didn’t mention her selection of lace which was odd at best.

I was hoping that Donatella had hit her stride and found her niche within the history of the fabled house but that hope is most certainly dashed after this collection.  What the hell was she thinking?  The show ended better than it started but certainly should  have been better balanced  in terms of the so called day wear as opposed to the wildly over the top evening clothes.  What happened to the tailoring that has been a hallmark of the brand since its inception?

The bottom line … she can do better!

http://www.examiner.com/slideshow/international-style-milan-fashion-week-versace-spring-2013

Etro Spring 2013 Milan Collections

Long before Etro was a fashion brand, it was well known for its madder prints and its paisley challis and true to its roots, Etro, the fashion brand, remains loyal to these roots albeit in a less literal way.  The house is still all about prints and each season, one of the Etros continues to demonstrate why there is an Etro. 

Veronica Etro plies a deft hand with the prints and has created an Etro look for women who are both sophisticated and chic.  Don’t think hat this means applies to the more conventional definition of those terms.  Etro is an acquired taste with a stylish bohemian slant that can be as off putting as it can be appealing, depending on the breadth of your “style quotient.”

With all this being said, for Spring Ms. Etro has certainly kept her preferences clear and on point.  For the most part, it is, yes, all about prints but these are prints for the season which are bright, not so classic, but always about the heritage of Etro.  These are not the classic madders or paisleys nor are they the challis or crepe de chine we might recall from times gone by, these are in your face prints that further the reputation of the brand as a leader in fashion and prints.

For spring, the background color of choice is white which plays off all the stark contrasts of brights and black.  The shapes are easy and look like one wants to jump into them and be comfortable for any occasion, but note the Japanese ish influence evidenced with the kimono sleeves and wraps.  Actually, the shapes are what one would expect for this time of year, yet what did surprise me was the inclusion of the sequin pieces which remain young in spirit yet somewhat out of place with all the prints an don’t he flip side are some rather wonderful solid color styles that really complement the collection.  No matter, as I would much rather see a beautiful collection like this that requires no explanation other than …these are beautiful clothes!

http://www.etro.com/