Sunday, March 5, 2017

Valentino PFW fall 2017



Let’s start with the assets or positive things that I might say about the collection. Pier Paolo has finally ditched the menopausal color palette that he has been so fond of, let’s say that the collection is boldly and beautifully filled with color, we can also see that without question, the ”make” of the clothes is superb and finally the monastic vestal virgins who inhabited his “nunnery’ have been banished. It is nice to see these very young girls wearing a dab of makeup and with hair beautifully groomed. Also importantly is that the sheer factor was not in the majority… blessedly. 
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Okay now onto the “meat” of it. Editing might have helped, variation in length might have helped and then of course there is the mere fact that most of the clothes were shapeless (think tent dresses not trapeze) and about as sexy as a snuggie. We might also point out that there was no beauty in the Etsy necklace which seems to have been the accessory of choice.  Sadly, glamour Valentino style includes all clothes worn with boots or “bedroom scuffs”… you remember those don’t you? So all I can gather from this and from seeing a good deal of the audience is that the collection is aimed at roughly aged 20-35 women   or women of a certain age who wish to cover every inch of themselves.
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My question is how many of the so called millennial generation are spending in the neighborhood of 5,000 to look like a “couture” hippy in a granny dress?
So with all that said, and I could say much more… whatever happened to the roots of the brand? You know the tarty stuff… the stuff that made women feel sexy and sometimes matronly but always glamorous and chic. Huh? What happened to that? What happened to the logic involved in creating a collection that can be afforded by the audience that it appeals to? Tell me …. Someone?? Anyone??  
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 Has aspiration shopping turned into the local thrift store shopper?

Balenciaga PFW fall 2017



And here we have still one more case of HYPE blinding and totally concealing anything that has to do with the DNA of the brand. Simply said these are clothes for those who revel in deformity and shock value. Since I don’t particular care for either situation, I guess I am supposed to run for my depends from seeing the spectacular parade of who cares clothes shown in odd, if not forced and tortured, proportions.
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Oh wait!! The collection will no doubt be nothing short of a revelation to the so called media elite but for me, I wish I could unsee what I have seen associated with one of the greatest designers of the 20th century. Okay, I’ll be kind; this is an onslaught to senses and an insult to the name! Personally, the brand should be renamed “Experiments in Poor Taste” dba "Wet Dreams do Come True" or simply WDDCT!
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What more needs to be said ... laud him ... applaud him … put him up on a pedestal but the bottom line is the same ... a pig in couture is a pig in couture... if you catch my drift! Kool aid is dispensed before leaving the premises... drink hearty
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PS as for mining the archives ... You defame the legacy of the man and his talents
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Saturday, March 4, 2017

Watanabe & Yamamoto PFW fall 2017



There are rare times when I can honestly say I am awed by what I see on a runway but that moment has come when I see the likes of these 2 designers. This is not about wearable, this is not even about like or dislike, this is about the astounding bodies of work that these 2 designers bring to the world of fashion as well as to the art and craft of fashion. 
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Having never been a designer in the truest sense, I stand in jaw dropping amazement as to how these 2, almost cultish, designers ply their  talents and show  them in a world that rarely applauds such creativity, imagination and technical prowess. 
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What came to mind, especially with Yamamoto is that Rick Owens should take note of a designer that evolves. Yamamoto is almost schizophrenic in the dichotomy of the presentation which ranged from the most artisanal wildly imaginative draping and origami like pieces to the starkest and most minimal of any fashion from any designer. Who does this? Who can do it? 
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I admit that Watanabe is a total enigma to me but it so intrigues me. The clothes make me want to touch them and examine them and ask about how it is done and how it is possible to reproduce such incredible fashion. I cannot make that statement about 90% of what has strolled or marched down the runways anywhere this season. 


I can only say that beauty is indeed in the eye of the beholder but who can deny the brilliance of what these 2 designers propose as fashion …
 








Andrew Gn PFW fall 2017



I have been an on again off again fan of Gn but this season I am most definitely back on his trail. What a delight to see a collection that has been well thought out and magnificently brought to life at a time when ugly passes for pretty and seemingly that 25 year olds are the sole target customer for every aspect and brand of fashion.
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Yes, these are the clothes of adults and by that I mean that anyone who has found that blue jeans and sweats are not the sole uniform of women over 15. The tedium and repetition of mediocre design that pervades the runways is maddening especially when heritage brands have become so diluted as to become glorified Lululemons or high priced H&M collections. Andrew Gn is the anti-trend answer to the “me too” attitude, mindset and mood of fashion minus the blah blah blah. 
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He is a master at polish and presentation. No question in my mind that the echoes of Yves are loud and clear as are the influences and references of Klimt and Beardsley. Isn’t it refreshing to be able to read the references without an instruction manual? Isn’t it a pleasure to see models dressed as models with fab hair and makeup and runway perfect accessories? It’s called making a statement and Gn has emphatically made his.
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The clothes are unequivocally chic, polished, urbane, elegant, grown up and... Imagine… actually designed without any gimmick striving for a look at me factor. In other words these are the clothes that once made Paris the true fashion capital. Gn offers us a glimpse back with no retread but he propels us to the next generation or at least what can be done when there is actually talent at work and not just hype. The clothes are slick, original, and impactful and... Get ready... tasteful! OMG imagine that!!
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P
S ... Please take note of the almost couture like details that this designer do deftly uses in his collections!
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