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Monday, May 22, 2017
Lydia Courteille .. the KINSKY interview
Most of the creatives that I get to deal with and speak to are those
whose tools include a scissor and thread or some that use a camera but
here is a designer whose tools include gold and precious gemstones.
Lydia Courteille can be classified as one of the most original and
imaginative of the 21st century creators of haute joallier. She went
from collector to designer with several detours in between which
included a degree in gemology, retailing, being a dealer of antiquities,
a recognized authority on the subject...... FOR THE FULL INTERVIEW CLICK THE LINK.... http://www.thekinsky.com/conversations/the-curious-lydia-courteille/
Monday, May 15, 2017
Louis Vuitton .. resort 2018
Okay now don’t
be shocked here but I actually found a lot of pieces that certainly sparked my
interest and caught my eye. Let it be known that I am hardly a fan of the brand
or the designer but I would be lying if I didn’t say that the jackets, the
fabrics, the execution and some of the special effects were pretty amazing.
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Okay so it
was homage to Japan, to Kansai, to Kyoto, to kabuki and a lot of Japanesey
influences. Message sent and received! The tailoring was razor sharp, the star being
the jackets which, reality of price aside, were quite wonderful and ... get
ready…. Yes appealing and wearable! As in life, there is always an exception
which occurred toward the end with the excessively padded shoulder jackets
which came off looking more like an ode to Vetements rather than the intended
Kansai sentimental moment of the 70s.
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The ombré
and degradé fabrications were amazing and worked with a deft hand without
question. There was also the sculptural quality which was captured in those
“cap sleeved” jackets whether in leather or combinations but what totally
evaded me was the dresses. Whether they are shapeless tee shirt dresses or
oddly layered in tulle and lace; my issue is that no matter what ... I didn’t find
them to be pretty or particularly special in any way. Then of course there are
the leather pieces which remain in some ways works of art ... not necessarily
in the fashion sense but in the workmanship/craftsmanship sense much like the intrecciato of Bottega Veneta. These pieces are signature Ghesquière which he has
integrated into the vocabulary of Louis Vuitton.
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With all this said, the collection
is certainly one that ignited my attention and it has nothing to do with
salable as the prices must be astronomical but esthetically in a fashion way,
there are lots of pieces that deserve more than a passing glance.
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PS ... I’m not sure if I would call
this resort but then again I’m not sure what season this might be
Saturday, May 13, 2017
meet Vitalii Pleshkov.. the man who defied the odds
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Today’s
world of fashion is filled with misguided and ill-conceived notions and
standards for everything from what is considered stylish and fashionable to whom
and what is runway or print ready. We have reached this sort of interchangeability
in both clothing and who models or promotes it. When I first met Vitalii I was
instantly drawn to this man by his perseverance, yes of course by his looks,
his carriage and demeanor. There was a kindness that was palpable and I had the
feeling that this is a guy who will defy the odds. P.S. yes he exudes
sensuality that so many of his so called peers seem to lack!
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And so while there are models by the truckloads who think they are models because they stand in front of a camera and have tens of thousands of Instagram followers, then there is this guy. Vitalii is the face of a brand, he has done numerous commercials and print ads and yes he has been paid for his work while the others can boast followers and he can boast a career despite the road blocks.
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full interview can be read by clicking here ... http://mandrawn.com/interview-vitalii-pleshkov-jeffrey-felner/
Friday, May 12, 2017
Christian Dior ...resort 2018
While I have no doubt that there are pieces of the most exquisite quality ...
there are also some of the ugliest clothes I have seen in very long time. It is
like Ralph Lauren took acid, hooked up with Frida Kahlo and had a threesome
with Annie Oakley. Apparently going way back to the wild wild west was a solution for a collection and for some it
might even look as though Chiuri went all the way back to cave paintings. HOLY
SHIT!
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To say that I watched this parade slack
jawed is an understatement. Under her absurd notion of the so called “new Dior,”
Maison Dior is now a one stop shopping destination for this who think every day
is an excuse to play dress up as some caricature of some drug addled cowgirl.
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Again, the beauty to be found here was if
you could visually dissect the looks and pinpoint the beauty which was most definitely
in the jackets. The whole thing reminds me of Trump, the scale and total effect
is so overpowering that you can’t really see what’s important. Sadly, some of
the simpler more wearable gowns are nothing short of hideously pedestrian but
again some of the jackets and coats are perfection. But why do the clothes look
so heavy, so thick, and so clumsy?
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I am not shy or ashamed about loving excess
but you know there is a limit to how much fringe you can add to a collection. I
am also not shy about mixing prints but hell, this was positively dizzying to
the point of you don’t know what to look at first which means to see a blur.
Dior denim?
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What is the saddest part is this might have
been an amazing statement making collection had the looks been reconstructed to
allow the spectator to see and focus on the quality and theme but instead we
have this frenzy of old west get ups.
One must say that the apparent “mestizo” casting surely didn’t do much to lend
an air of chic or polish to the collection … well you know... the kind of feeling
that the name Christian Dior had evoked for over 50 years.
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PS... more flats more … work boots .. nuh uh!
Wednesday, May 10, 2017
meet Hubert Rufskin ...THE KINSKY INTERVIEW the muti-tasking designer
In my experience I have come to understand that many designers have enough
trouble just designing their singular collection and then there are the
exceptions to that statement; enter Hubert Rufskin! Here is a man who not only
masters his métier as designer of several collections but also has mastered the
art of photography. .......... for the full interview on THE KINSKY ..see link below
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for the full interview on THE KINSKY.... click the link .. www.thekinsky.com/conversations/hubert-rufskins-absolute-freedom
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