Tuesday, October 1, 2013

Valentino .. Spring 2014 .. Paris Collections



Without question, two of the most striking aspects of the collection are the impeccable and flawless execution and the workmanship.  Moving on from that point, the collection, to me, is very wintry with very few exceptions.  Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli  have a very monastic and almost virginal approach to the appearance of the collection but this season that has morphed into a look that is seemingly very close to that of ladies of Dolce& Gabbana.  Yes the models do not look at robotic or as walking dead  due to a touch of makeup but the overall picture is very very D&G!  I am sure it is not conscious but nevertheless it is quite apparent.



The collection is full of silhouettes and some are even new to the house but some are quite awkward as the high low hem with straight across edges, the flounced full legged pant which appears far too many times considering their oafishness, especially in denim..yikes!,  and the keyhole cotton shirt which seems to be at odds with itself and pairings.  There is repetition of shapes that have become part of the brand vocabulary since they took over but the palette is overridingly and overbearingly too moody and too particular for a Spring season.


Complicating my emotions concerning the collection is the almost omnipresent mantra about how the collection is younger than the eponymous collection but I increasingly fail to see it.  For me it is distinctly funereal in presentation, coloration and design.  So somber!  I fail to see any youthful or playful facets here.


The obvious folkloric inspirations/references are a bit over the top when compounded with the fringe and lace and the almost archangel hair ware... this is not my cup of tea at all.  I can only appreciate these clothes, with very rare exceptions, as beautiful pieces of technical accomplishments as well as the previously stated exquisite finished product... as a product only on a visual level!  Paging Frida Kahlo!!


On a fashion level, not so much.