Without question, two of the most striking aspects of the
collection are the impeccable and flawless execution and the workmanship. Moving on from that point, the collection, to
me, is very wintry with very few exceptions.
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have a very monastic and almost virginal
approach to the appearance of the collection but this season that has morphed
into a look that is seemingly very close to that of ladies of Dolce&
Gabbana. Yes the models do not look at
robotic or as walking dead due to a
touch of makeup but the overall picture is very very D&G! I am sure it is not conscious but
nevertheless it is quite apparent.
The collection is full of silhouettes and some are even new
to the house but some are quite awkward as the high low hem with straight
across edges, the flounced full legged pant which appears far too many times
considering their oafishness, especially in denim..yikes!, and the keyhole cotton shirt which seems to be
at odds with itself and pairings. There
is repetition of shapes that have become part of the brand vocabulary since
they took over but the palette is overridingly and overbearingly too moody and
too particular for a Spring season.
Complicating my emotions concerning the collection is the
almost omnipresent mantra about how the collection is younger than the
eponymous collection but I increasingly fail to see it. For me it is distinctly funereal in
presentation, coloration and design. So
somber! I fail to see any youthful or
playful facets here.
The obvious folkloric inspirations/references are a bit over
the top when compounded with the fringe and lace and the almost archangel hair
ware... this is not my cup of tea at all.
I can only appreciate these clothes, with very rare exceptions, as
beautiful pieces of technical accomplishments as well as the previously stated
exquisite finished product... as a product only on a visual level! Paging Frida Kahlo!!
On a fashion level, not so much.
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