While not being a huge fan of Christopher Bailey, but in an
effort to give credit where credit is due, he has delivered some amazing
collections. What is bothersome to me, besides him being very over rated, is
that the collections bear no continuity other than the ubiquitous trench coat.
It might be said that it is the last shred of the original DNA of the brand other
than the plaid.
Resort 2016 plays right into what has become the M O for the
brand and so many other heritage brands and that is simply presenting
collections of clothes ... nondescript unidentifiable clothes whose only
purpose is to fill the racks for that particular season. There is no more
instant recognition here as there has been no effort from the brand’s design
team to develop one.
Yes, the clothes are pretty, as well they should be
considering the prices. Yes the animal prints have become somewhat of a
signature but they could be attributed to anyone. What is most outstanding is
that Bailey has truly massaged the trench coat in the most beautiful and
skilled ways. This season, without doubt, the heavy lace trenches are just
sublime as well as one “hairy” animal print version … wearable? ... well who
knows and who cares.. they are exquisite. All the simple shaped silhouettes
show off the incredible fabrications, combinations and permutations of lace in
its many forms. What evades me is that other than models who are paid to wear
these clothes or the gals who are given these clothes ... who is buying them
and where are they wearing them?
What one must credit Bailey, Bravo and Ahrendts with the
company developing a HUGE accessory business and that alone might be what
supports the marquee category, let alone resuscitated the sleepy brand. In
essence, Burberry will always be about trench coat and plaid no matter what
comes down that runway season after season. It saddens me that these great “blue blood” brands lose sight of who and why they become
iconic, yes, yes I am aware that times change and brands must evolve to survive
but why always take the easiest path and that is to ignore the history and
create a new visual vocabulary which unfortunately is no longer brand specific.
Yes, the collection is appealing to a very narrow audience,
the accessories are very commercial and yet I say so what?
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