There are many things that can be said about Sarah Burton, but the most important is that on her worst day she is head and shoulders above the majority of her peers when it comes to delivering on a collection! I will openly admit that I had to read one review before I could write mine as I was curious, a rarity, to know the backstory, otherwise known as the blah blah blah that most designers use as an excuse or rationale rather than a jumping off point. Burton told it plain and simple, shooting from the hip, that New York City was her inspiration ... well... that’s enough for me ... I don’t need any esoterica or faux intellectual espousals from any designers.
While I may not have been crazy about the dresses, in most cases, whether for fabrication or reasons of design, the high point of this collection was in the tailored pieces which ranged from close to the body (not second skin) to slightly and I emphasize slightly, oversized. No balloon dragging hemmed pants, no shorts, just slim pants worn with stilettos and not oafish or Wookie shoes. Imagine that, she touched on so many trends that I found so wrong in other collections but when done with this kind of skillset, they were so slick, so smooth and so right!
The one shoulder jacket with asymmetrical organza pouf lapel was staggering as was the tuxedo dress with glacé lace and beading. It’s a rare moment I can speak about McQueen as being soigné but so many times in this collection it was with seemingly little effort. The airbrush prints sure did remind me Lee’s famous show where the paint was sprayed onto the model and then of course there was black leather, some tough as nails and others as feminine as charmeuse gown. I guess it is best summed up by saying this is what can happen when designers actually design.
My biggest criticisms would be that I wish the dress part was stronger or more pleasing to my eye and that the casting did not lean so heavily on so many gender fluid models rather than the more “painted “variety ... that’s just me as I think that would have been an asset.
Anyway ...I did like it ... A LOT ... I just can’t say I LOVED IT!
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