Showing posts with label Christian siriano. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Christian siriano. Show all posts

Sunday, February 11, 2018

Christian Siriano fall 2018



Recently I read that Siriano wanted to shed the Project Runway association and just be recognized as a legitimate designer. The sad part is that he really is a legitimate designer but occasionally and possibly too often lapses back into that kind of Project Runway/Drag Race mindset rife with that kind of trickery and gimmickry. The words EDIT and RESTRAINT come to mind.
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If you strip away about ½ of the collection you have a beautiful collection of dresses that are wearable, distinctive and well designed and oh that dirty word again … salable. Unfortunately it is the third or half that wasn’t omitted that stays in your memory and you can’t unsee them.  Another thought that came to mind is that he skipped over any daywear of what used to be called cocktail clothes or after 5 which might have included anything from a great little black dresses to short after 5 dressy dresses… which by the way.. He can and has done quite successfully in the past. 
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Silly accessories and clumsy furs didn’t add much to his desired message nor did the Lagerfeld/Galliano-esque penmanship grouping and heavy handed patent leather… BUT….  We live in hope that someone and in  some way the right person will harness Siriano’s talent and send him on the path he needs to follow without playing design school dress up games and grow up.
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Sunday, February 14, 2016

The "IT" boys... Wang, Baja East, Altuzarra, Siriano fall 2016



Apparently the supposed golden boys of so called American fashion are really trying to get their message across for fall 2016. The problem is that one might be horribly confused as to what that message might be. Among this assemblage we have a collection or two that is actually designed, one collection for wannabe rich white hip hop folks and one that is contemporary sportswear pretending to be top shelf fashion. Please be advised that 3 of the 4 are just these darlings of the media as after all they might be conceived as Anna’s boys and that speaks to the devolving cycle of fashion.

Plunk your magic twanger, Froggy! Or twang your magic wanger! Wang!.. Froggy the gremlin was a troublemaker. Disrespectful of adult authority figures, Froggy played practical jokes and disrupted the presentations of other guests. Alexander Wang is this century’s take on Froggy as his collections continue to be nothing more than contemporary sportswear pretending to be serious fashion for adults. No matter the hype, the silly kissy prancing and so called oh too fab after parties, these are clothes for young women whose favorite shopping spots include H&M, Zara, Topshop and this is their aspirational brand. The clothes, for the most part might come with a warning label stating that you must be under 40 to wear them or risk looking like you are wearing your daughter’s clothes.
 
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Next up, speaking of Caucasian wannabe Hip Hoppers, we come to Baja East who seems to actually believe these are designer clothes. They seem to be alumnus of the Hood By Air/Yeezy/Hedi school of fashion which means you have wildly and extravagantly expensive clothes that will cover you and yet you still look like an unmade or slept in bed. And the proof lies in the designer’s exits who went from clean cut darlings of the wholesale biz to their now Justin Bieber I wannabe a hip hop singer persona. From what I am lead to believe, the collection has near none retail appeal and who can argue; imagine most of it is shown folded or the rest hanging limply on a rack growing inch by inch day by day. One must assume in this new context of fashion that the world is now waiting for logo’d tops for 1000’s of dollars and pants that dust the floor as you walk, or trip over yourself, and are guaranteed to fray if your feet touch a pavement.
 
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Now, there are two collections that are actually seemingly designed; they are not me too’s and there are actually clothes that one might imagine being worn which in the general scheme of things is as rare as hen’s teeth, to quote a past Texan colleague.

Altuzarra has more than proven himself to be a tailor of note. Whether or not I understand it, I can appreciate this aspect of his talents and this season, as said, the collection seems to be a collection that holds together with his staples as well as novelties, all presented in a very slick way. The great mix of patterns and textures and for the most part straight forward silhouettes that could possible translate to sales. I know the dirty word has reared its ugly head but you gotta sell this shit or else what’s the point? After all, Anna aint coming around to scoop up your collections at every retail outlet so you gotta have some actual appeal and IMHO, he hits the mark this season. And, as we have learned in most recent times... no sales, no job! .....PS something gnawing  at me says John Ashpool
 
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Last up is the kid who was a punch line or everyone joked about when he was a reality TV designer but Siriano has more than proven himself an adept designer whose roots lie in the more classically interpreted roots of fashion and he is as serious as a heart attack when it comes to his output. Oh, in case you need a refresher on that, I speak of designed clothes to be worn which are relatively ageless, relatively tasteful and actually bring something to the table rather than being the scraps that are cleared off after dinner. No, this is not the end all do all but it is surely a collection that has retail appeal and requires no blah blah blah nor does one need a road map to figure out how to wear them. This collection sort of looked like if Laura Biagiotti, Halston and Siriano collaborated this would be their brainchild. This young man actually has developed his DNA which is far more than I can say of most of his contemporaries who are still searching.
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Sunday, February 15, 2015

Christian Siriano ... Fall 12015 ... NYFW



Here’s the deal, the kid has talent. What bugs me is who is whispering his ear that tells him those freaking dust busters (Celine? Chloe? Whoever it was, that did those ugly things the first) are right for this collection. If you want to show a grown up classy collection that exudes good taste and shows off you’re your talents, then you gotta lose the gimmicks and that includes the platform shoes as well!



Yes, it is a collection in the true sense for day clothes t cocktail to evening which is a rarity in these times but Siriano gets lost with some very clumsy fabric choices and then some very ungainly shapes and proportions. There is no question that below the knee offends my eyes but that length also ages most women not to mention makes them look shorter and squatter.



In my mind, what needs to happen is that there needs to be an editor and maybe a merchandiser who can lead the designer on a path that will show off his talents to their greatest advantage and make less of his shortcomings whether it be lengths, fabric, silhouettes or even some less than flattering designs.
Within the collection there are odes to Balenciaga,  de la Renta and many more like Trigere, (you may need to google if your resume is only 20 minutes long)  but all that can be forgiven because if this young man plays his cards right he can be the next generation’s Blass or de la Renta. He can be a well-respected and revered designer if he can forgo the Project Runway schticks and theatrics! There are some wonderful evening gowns and cocktails clothes and we already know he can do day clothes as he has done it before.



The real question remains... Can he take a more realistic classic look at fashion and leave the uber trends to his less capable contemporaries who need the gimmicks?

Sunday, September 7, 2014

Christian Siriano spring 2015



In that sea of sameness that has become NYFW, there is an unlikely contender for outstanding achievement in a seasonal collection and that would be Christian Siriano.  Isn’t it strange that the kid who everyone thought was this mad queen is turning out to be the cream of the crop?



The offering for Spring 2015 is at all times quite sophisticated and pretty damned tasty. Yes there are some major clunkers within but there are some major stunners that would rank amongst the best of the best. Mr. Siriano belies his youth as he seems to out shine many of his peers by grasping the fact that this is a business that is all about selling clothes and not only about gaining  a nod from some ill-educated, advertising hungry,  or underexposed  critic or editor.


It is apparent that this designer is “auditioning” styles in an effort to expand his audience and as we all know if you don’t try you just never know. Daywear is slowly but surely gaining traction and the evening clothes demonstrate a very sure hand as well as an esthetic that goes beyond his work experience. The point here is that Mr. Siriano is joining that elite club of designers who design, he experiments, he tweaks, he massages and he is winning.


There is great variety of fabrication and even with his blah blah blah, the clothes speak for themselves. As stated, they may not be everybody’s cup of tea but in my mind 1 of Mr. Siriano wins out over 10 of the more hyped and supposedly talented media darlings and their overrated collections.