Showing posts with label joseph altuzarra. Show all posts
Showing posts with label joseph altuzarra. Show all posts

Sunday, February 14, 2016

The "IT" boys... Wang, Baja East, Altuzarra, Siriano fall 2016



Apparently the supposed golden boys of so called American fashion are really trying to get their message across for fall 2016. The problem is that one might be horribly confused as to what that message might be. Among this assemblage we have a collection or two that is actually designed, one collection for wannabe rich white hip hop folks and one that is contemporary sportswear pretending to be top shelf fashion. Please be advised that 3 of the 4 are just these darlings of the media as after all they might be conceived as Anna’s boys and that speaks to the devolving cycle of fashion.

Plunk your magic twanger, Froggy! Or twang your magic wanger! Wang!.. Froggy the gremlin was a troublemaker. Disrespectful of adult authority figures, Froggy played practical jokes and disrupted the presentations of other guests. Alexander Wang is this century’s take on Froggy as his collections continue to be nothing more than contemporary sportswear pretending to be serious fashion for adults. No matter the hype, the silly kissy prancing and so called oh too fab after parties, these are clothes for young women whose favorite shopping spots include H&M, Zara, Topshop and this is their aspirational brand. The clothes, for the most part might come with a warning label stating that you must be under 40 to wear them or risk looking like you are wearing your daughter’s clothes.
 
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Next up, speaking of Caucasian wannabe Hip Hoppers, we come to Baja East who seems to actually believe these are designer clothes. They seem to be alumnus of the Hood By Air/Yeezy/Hedi school of fashion which means you have wildly and extravagantly expensive clothes that will cover you and yet you still look like an unmade or slept in bed. And the proof lies in the designer’s exits who went from clean cut darlings of the wholesale biz to their now Justin Bieber I wannabe a hip hop singer persona. From what I am lead to believe, the collection has near none retail appeal and who can argue; imagine most of it is shown folded or the rest hanging limply on a rack growing inch by inch day by day. One must assume in this new context of fashion that the world is now waiting for logo’d tops for 1000’s of dollars and pants that dust the floor as you walk, or trip over yourself, and are guaranteed to fray if your feet touch a pavement.
 
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Now, there are two collections that are actually seemingly designed; they are not me too’s and there are actually clothes that one might imagine being worn which in the general scheme of things is as rare as hen’s teeth, to quote a past Texan colleague.

Altuzarra has more than proven himself to be a tailor of note. Whether or not I understand it, I can appreciate this aspect of his talents and this season, as said, the collection seems to be a collection that holds together with his staples as well as novelties, all presented in a very slick way. The great mix of patterns and textures and for the most part straight forward silhouettes that could possible translate to sales. I know the dirty word has reared its ugly head but you gotta sell this shit or else what’s the point? After all, Anna aint coming around to scoop up your collections at every retail outlet so you gotta have some actual appeal and IMHO, he hits the mark this season. And, as we have learned in most recent times... no sales, no job! .....PS something gnawing  at me says John Ashpool
 
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Last up is the kid who was a punch line or everyone joked about when he was a reality TV designer but Siriano has more than proven himself an adept designer whose roots lie in the more classically interpreted roots of fashion and he is as serious as a heart attack when it comes to his output. Oh, in case you need a refresher on that, I speak of designed clothes to be worn which are relatively ageless, relatively tasteful and actually bring something to the table rather than being the scraps that are cleared off after dinner. No, this is not the end all do all but it is surely a collection that has retail appeal and requires no blah blah blah nor does one need a road map to figure out how to wear them. This collection sort of looked like if Laura Biagiotti, Halston and Siriano collaborated this would be their brainchild. This young man actually has developed his DNA which is far more than I can say of most of his contemporaries who are still searching.
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Saturday, December 12, 2015

Pre-fall 2016 .. a brief but telling synopsis



Fashion has become a business that is short on originality and creativity and even shorter on being an independent thinker. Pre-fall 2016 certainly shows that concept off to a great degree and furthermore proffers the thoughts that designers are floundering by having no signature looks and even worse trying to be a “me too” or an “on trend” collection. Apparently the word relevant has crept into the fashion vernacular but the definition seems to be that if you pander to 20 somethings then you are relevant! Well, friends that’s a recipe for disaster not success and you can quote me! Here are just a few examples that demonstrate these thoughts.

Elie Saab who is usually on my fave list has opted to go astray with his version of Hedi’s Saint Laurent. How sad!


Erdem which at one time was excruciatingly beautiful now looks like the re imagined Valentino.


Michael Kors continues his disconnect between his image ads and collections. What ever happened to a great American designer who made great American clothes?


Jason Wu apparently took a cue from a past Ferragamo collection and yes it is time to lose those Rachel Zoe puddling pant lengths.


Altuzarra has decided his identity lies with being a Proenza Schouler continuation.


Alex Wang … well he just continues to design for H&M but now with a decidedly Hedi influence.

Sunday, September 8, 2013

Joseph Altuzarra Spring 2014



Starting with Spring 2014, there will be a series of mini reviews which basically will say the most but in the least amount of words as well as half the amount of slides.  The terse appraisals will not take the place of my more formal and thorough reviews; they will enable to me to publish more for your perusal.  Somehow my feeling is that the reader will not need to know any more than what I have offered.
For me, this is just another case of “The Emperor’s New Clothes” or Much Ado About Nothing.” I hope Kering is very happy with their purchase as he is one more who will now become the board of directors bitch and will be answering to a raft of CPA’s rather than his clients.

 


First instinct is that the clothes reminded of Orthodox Jews and with their tzizit and tallit (see slide show). The collection is gimmicky and rabbinical in the extreme and once that is stripped away there isn’t much.  It is rather yawn worthy at that point.  What does stand out is that the young man knows how to tailor a jacket.  I think there is great talent there but it just hasn’t been channeled in one specific direction.  Each season there are different bells and whistles and each season there is some new convoluted message.

 

Is it too much to ask for a collection that bears a distinction in belonging to a specific designer and not a collection that can be attributed to anyone … in essence, where is the DNA of this brand and soon it will be just that.. a brand