VERSUS Spring 2016 LFW

Having just read an interview with Carine Roitfeld where she stated “never say never when it comes to fashion,” these words are screaming in my ears as now words like restrained, commercial, understated and pared down come to mind about Versus. Imagine these words used to describe ANY Versace collection; Anthony Vaccarello has possibly done a complete 180 under his directorship and possibly created the first ever Versace collection that could be deemed …. Boring... it is almost inconceivable.

click on the image to enlarge

click on the image to enlarge

Don’t misunderstand me; the collection has lots of plusses, the biggest being that it is extremely commercial and, IMHO, this stuff is gonna sell like crazy. The clothes are not tricked out, tacky, seam burstingly tight or sexed up. Vaccarello has dialed it down to an almost shockingly low key level BUT to say the collection is lacking in sex appeal would be misguided. The color palette is confined to mostly black and with a few very very feminine black background prints and of course the beloved leopard print which looks astonishingly fresh. This doesn’t sound like the razzle dazzle in your face Versus as rendered under the hand of Donatellamommamia... does it?

click on the image to enlarge

In this age of see it now, buy it now and wear it within days,  when impulse is king, the question is whether or not those on computers or mobile devices will be giving up their credit card info to own a piece of this before anyone can say boo! What comes to mind is whether or not you call this Spring or literally ready to wear!

click on the image to enlarge

click on the image to enlarge

Vaccarello's Versus spring 2015

Well it took long enough but finally someone has figured out how to mine the archive at the house of Versace. The biggest question in my mind is how long will this good fortune last? Anthony Vaccarello has absorbed the DNA of its eponymous founder and even has injected some of Donatellamommamia esthetic into the mix.

The particular focus of this seasons offering was the Fall/Winter collection of 1992 designed by Gianni which was heavily influenced by leather and bondage. Vaccarello certainly tapped into it and certainly put it to good use. If this is not a one hit wonder of a collection then Ms. Versace would be foolish not to allow this young man to take the design helm at the brand. This could possibly be what the brand needs as surely Donatellamommamia is not up to the task as she has shown us season and after season.

Signorina V has tried to reference her late brother but never as successfully as this young man has done. The harnesses, the hardware, the leather and the raw sex appeal were all in attendance and done so in a very commanding, assured and deft way. Gianni was about louche, Donatellamommamia is about sluts and Vaccarello has recaptured Gianni and refined Signora V to fit into the scheme of things.

Please do not misconstrue and think that this is the most fabulous collection to ever hit a runway but this IS a collection that befits the brand and one that the Signora has never been able to accomplish n matter how hard she tried. The confining palette, the Greek key, the medusa, the tailoring; it is all there and right up front for all to see. Yes, there were some not so great pieces and yes even one might say clunkers but they are outweighed by the successes.

Bottom line here is simply that this is more than just like and not quite love but Vaccarello’s Versus holds your attention for good reason and surely gives you great pause as to what he MIGHT be able to do in the future!

Versus Versace resort 2013/14 by Donatella Versace & J.W. Anderson

There reaches a time when being polite flies out the window.  There comes a time when beating around the bush and finessing words is no longer acceptable.  With all this being said, the topic of conversation is Versus Versace by the she demon herself Donatella and its latest victim designer J.W. Anderson; rather than throw boulders not stones, lets add a dose of comedy to soften the blow.

Dear Dona and JW,

I must tell you I am just slack jawed that you showed that stuff today and that you can take it seriously.  Now listen doll, you can chat it up all you and think that this is wearable let alone salable but honey c’mon, H&M would want this for free.  WTF were the two of you thinking?

JW, I am not so familiar with your work but if this is any indication, I have to say you have a great future in carnival costumes as not even a self-respecting drag queen would caught be dead in these rags and get-ups.  I read that La Signora coaxed you into doing sexier clothes…. Well ... how shall I say this … F A I L!  I hope this paid well cause it aint gonna do squat for your design chops and reputation.  I know Donadiablo told you not to worry because it is Versace but... how shall I say this delicately ... SHE LIED! And poor Gianni spun himself 6 feet deeper.

Let me take this to a whole new level... this crap is appalling and insulting and to think you guys can make it better with that blah blah blah stuff .. Me thinks it is time for a career change to maybe a fiction writer or possibly the 2 of you need to up the meds to their limits as you are both suffering from some serious delusions.

One last thing, ragazzo, who the hell dresses like this and where are you going to wear it?  I hope you understand I said this all with love and hope that you will take this as the most constructive of criticism as I would never say anything to hurt your collective feelings.  On this most positive of notes...kiss kiss ciao ciao  kiddies... dinner next week I hope  … see you soon...try try again…….

Love

Me

P.S. Dona carrissime .. quit beating the horse ..it is dead!