Well it took long enough but finally someone has figured out
how to mine the archive at the house of Versace. The biggest question in my
mind is how long will this good fortune last? Anthony Vaccarello has absorbed
the DNA of its eponymous founder and even has injected some of Donatellamommamia
esthetic into the mix.
The particular focus of this seasons offering was the
Fall/Winter collection of 1992 designed by Gianni which was heavily influenced
by leather and bondage. Vaccarello certainly tapped into it and certainly put
it to good use. If this is not a one hit wonder of a collection then Ms.
Versace would be foolish not to allow this young man to take the design helm at
the brand. This could possibly be what the brand needs as surely
Donatellamommamia is not up to the task as she has shown us season and after
season.
Signorina V has tried to reference her late brother but
never as successfully as this young man has done. The harnesses, the hardware,
the leather and the raw sex appeal were all in attendance and done so in a very
commanding, assured and deft way. Gianni was about louche, Donatellamommamia is
about sluts and Vaccarello has recaptured Gianni and refined Signora V to fit
into the scheme of things.
Please do not misconstrue and think that this is the most
fabulous collection to ever hit a runway but this IS a collection that befits
the brand and one that the Signora has never been able to accomplish n matter
how hard she tried. The confining palette, the Greek key, the medusa, the
tailoring; it is all there and right up front for all to see. Yes, there were
some not so great pieces and yes even one might say clunkers but they are
outweighed by the successes.
Bottom line here is simply that this is more than just like
and not quite love but Vaccarello’s Versus holds your attention for good reason
and surely gives you great pause as to what he MIGHT be able to do in the
future!
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