Let’s talk intellect now, not the bloated philosophical
variety that comes so easily to those like Raf, Miuccia and Nicky but the
intellect or rather the smarts of what it takes to deliver an exquisite
collection of clothes. Yes, smarts well maybe savvy would be even more to the point.
Giambattista Valli is clearly a designer who has a vision
and a mission. Both are achieved season after season by following his gut and
evolving his body of work. Spring 2015 is clearly a collection that boasts his
well-honed skills and talents as well his trajectory in the world of fashion.
Giamba, if I may, stands much closer to the top of fashion hierarchy than most
as he is one of the very few, and
getting fewer, designers who design. If you follow the collections around the
fashion circuit you find so many designers who think that if they blend in and
fall on trend they win but here is the spoiler alert… they lose!
What is severely lacking in this business or art that we
call fashion is the heroes who brave the waters by showing a personal and
unique approach season after season. Unique would mean that it is their vocabulary
and DNA on display and not a mediocre take on modern fashion influenced by
someone else’s work. If you take for example the “petal” dresses that Bill
Gaytten did for Galliano this season and then you look at a very similar
approach taken by Mr. Valli, well... Clearly you can see that vision and
imagination only go so far unless you can successfully execute them.
Okay enough preaching, let’s talk about the hyper feminine,
luxe and pitch perfect collection. Valli clearly has a handle on his customer and
offers her more than enough reason for her to lust after more of what he turns
out. The clothes are so precise without being surgical. This is the essence of
what I now call “step down” couture. He massages his vision, he imposes his
themes without ever getting lost in them and he explores territory that most
are incapable of or ignorant of. His
choice of embroideries and prints are those which again do not distract from
the clothes but enhance them. The variety of silhouettes and his adherence to
his DNA and vision is more than just admirable. As described in my Givenchy
review, Mr. Valli’s clothes have instant recognition to those who follow
fashion closely unlike what is stated in that previous review.
Rarely are there not enough superlatives to describe any
collection. Mr. Valli offers reassurance that fashion is alive and well in
Paris especially in his maison! He is the master of his universe without doubt
or question.
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