Let’s talk Mugler!
Mugler 2015! David Koma might just be the one to revive the name and bring it
into the 21st century. Unquestionably this collection is head and
shoulders about anything that that the hack Formichetti had produced under the
name during his gleefully abbreviated tenure.
It was my understanding that Monsieur Mugler himself
handpicked Mr. Koma and apparently he was quite prescient with his selection.
The new designer of the brand has in one moment polished the house’s reputation
after being tarnished by a media anointed designer, well actually not a
designer at all... let’s just say someone who had no business to be at the helm
in the first place. He had a much more personal agenda than a plan for a fabled
heritage brand.
Spring 2015 brings vitality and life back to the once highly
coveted brand and restores the gloss to its history. Koma has unquestionably
visited the archives and also added a bit of what constitutes fashion in the 21st
century. Personally, the loose fitting or more fluid pieces were not my favorites
but hardly eyesores either. No matter the silhouette the theme or unifying
thread of the show continued seamlessly.
The snake chain detail was employed
with deft hand and sparingly so that it was merely a detail and not a crucial
element of design. Again, this was part of the thread that held the collection
together quite cohesively. Interestingly, the tailored pieces were sharp clean
edged affairs but never as extreme as the originals and yet rang very true to
the house DNA. The palette worked with the exclusion of the print which might have
been perceived as a bit de trop or possibly forced rather than essential to the
overall presentation.
Keep in mind that the original Thierry Mugler designed collections
were filled with high drama and rigid standards and constructions that he
created and maintained during his tenure and Koma has softened up the edges and
sort of democratized them, if you catch my drift, to result in a highly
commercial and well-conceived collection. OOPSY... I said that dirty word again...
commercial.
Hopefully those who are smart enough will be able to see the
viability and retail opportunities that this collection now offers.
The question is if this was a groundbreaking collection and
the answer is simply no! This is a collection that can pave the way back and
open the brand to a whole new audience who can appreciate its esthetic. I’ll
take 1 of these against 10 Rabanne’s or 5 Dior’s or any Wang Balenciaga’s. Does
that tell you my reaction?
PS ..it is interesting to note that Mr. Mugler’s
presentations were highly accessorized including hair and makeup while Mr. Koma
showed confidently with nothing to distract from the clothes.
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