Showing posts with label nicolas Ghesquiere. Show all posts
Showing posts with label nicolas Ghesquiere. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 5, 2016

Louis Vuitton spring 2017 Paris



 Let it be known from the start, I have never really been a fan of Nicholas Ghesquiere nor the brand of Louis Vuitton, not even when Marc was designing it. BUT… something struck me this season, something good. Something like ... Yes I really like some of this collection and so here we are!
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The opening salvo of dresses (they sort of conjured TF’s first collection for Gucci) made me believe that this collection would be aimed at the idea that women might actually want to wear these clothes... Oh and let’s get this straight as well, we are not discussing price here, we are speaking strictly about the esthetics! So, yes I liked the dresses... Well not all but a lot more than usual, I even liked the checkerboard fish scale sequin number. Next would be the riff on tailored pieces which for the most part looked fresh and a nod to the current trend and mood that seems to be pervading international runways. Yes, I know some of the pieces were a tad over designed, but again, everything is relative so I am speaking in comparison to past collections from the brand.
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 The problem arose when the designer got crazy and took a wrong turn to and over the top tricked out. One can only imagine the reasons but I’m guessing they are backed up by some arcane esoteric inspiration to justify their existence. If the collection is dissected, there are pieces here and there than can be aptly termed classic and in some cases new or modern, at lack of better words.
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 Just as an FYI, I try very hard to find something positive to write about in many collections even though it may seem that I am a misanthrope of fashion espousing nastiness at every opportunity. Well, quite the contrary, I try to offer a view of fashion that is informed, hopefully somewhat impartial with some bits of humor and sometimes caustic as all hell.  If the truth be known, I’d rather write a good review and not a bad one and so here we are... A half and half review.

Sunday, May 29, 2016

Louis Vuitton resort 2017



LOCATION:  Rio, the Oscar Niemeyer designed Niterói Contemporary Art Museum
 
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WHY: Nicolas Ghesquière’s LOUIS VUITTON resort 2017 collection field trip for media hungry LVMH
 
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QUOTE: “I think what defines our time is that women want to look sophisticated and they want casual sports clothes—those are the two big obsessions.”
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COMMENTARY: I’m guessing that the designer forgot to look at the collection he was speaking of or maybe he was speaking of a different collection all together. I will not chew this up and spit and out but to say why?? Who wants to look like this for 1000s of dollars, why do you want some retread or cartoon handbags from an old Chanel collection and do you really think neoprene is a wearer friendly fabrication? Lastly since this collection is supposedly aimed at millennials or teenagers, were the prices reduced to compete with H&M and Zara? P.S.  save for a few beautifully tailored jackets, and or suits, where is this sophisticated in any way shape or form… let the editorial stampede begin!
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Thursday, May 7, 2015

Louis Vuitton resort 2016



While the media pundits will no doubt hail this as groundbreaking, well from its beauty, declare it exquisite, and declaring how unbelievably well designed and so so original, facts are facts... one of those being this; if the collection is all of the above, then why does a critic or reviewer spend more than 450 of oddly 700 words on front row and venue in their review? Then again there is this minor detail which is the collection is only marketed in Saks Fifth Avenue (my guess is nothing ever on sale and all merch supplied and owned by LV) and in its own  on the  A stores of its 460. Lastly it should be noted and NEEDS to be considered that this is a collection of stratospheric retail prices. That said, now we can begin ... by the way... this was CONTEXT!




With all this being out there and in your mind, I must say that I think I saw a few pigs fly by my window as I actually found some pieces that looked quite beautiful and even wearable provided you are a trust fund baby or just lucky enough to be a willowy size 8 or less with an immense clothing allowance or with a 7 figure job.




Of distinction were the laser cut leather dresses at the end, the “intricato” black gown, the 2 croco and georgette pieces that looked as gossamer as devoré, the Mondrianesque sequined jacket and even some of the drawstring pants.  There was one bronzy hued 40’s dress with a paillette like fish scale middy collar that was singular in the detail of the collar but little else as was the beige and black  laser cut dresses that were outstanding more as a works of art and craftsmanship rather than as an articles of clothing. The deeply quilted mini bags will surely be fodder for the accessory market while the hard bags remain a sort of silly accessory for fashion victims worldwide, especially when one considers the digital accessories and make up they must contain. I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the excessive amount of prints from the mundane chain link to an oddly Hermès looking one.




So, the patent flip flops will be in every store from Forever 21 and up in the food chain as well as versions of the trainers, desert boots and motocross jackets. Somehow I can’t imagine even the most voracious fashion vacuums sucking up hot pants and cropped jackets to be worn as the preferred choice for running off to lunch, the office even if you are the CEO or supermarket. Then again, even the most studied victim may not have legs that need to be insured! Oh!! And housecoats are your guess!!!



Call me old fashioned but the excessive amount of cropped and abbreviated jackets is just that and the juxtaposition of stiff leather standing away from the body in a criss cross or played out as pocket details seem oddly clumsy. On the whole one could say it was okay, it had its moments, and yet somehow it wouldn’t be a stretch to see it hanging in Zara or H&M albeit not of the same quality. So, what’s the fuss other than the enormous sums of money that are being spent to try to convince the fashion world that Nicky is a force to be reckoned with and that LV is a major player in the fashion business as well as a mega brand!