IN MY HUMBLE OPINION Haute Couture fall 2013

Apparently the endless supply Kool Aid that has been consumed from New York to Paris and then back again never continues to find the fashionably thirsty … once down the hatch, you join the fawning few who are, by vocation, the critics of fashion.

There is no doubt in my mind that reviews these days are based on advertising budgets, “it” boys, 2 huge mother ships, one media empire and the whim of several soulless females and one male who make it their business to ignore most and anoint the few of little or no talent.

As with every season and every city there are designers who seem to be under the “acceptable” radar, which means they receive no recognition in the more mainstream media venues and yet they have been honing their skills for decades or at least near to one of them.  For whatever it is worth, they have built their businesses and their client base by whatever means possible and for some with full on presentations that few can afford these days.

Having said all this and spewed a bit of venom while ‘saying’ all that, I bring to your attention Tony Yaacoub and Eric Tibusch.  Let’s just say they are not household names nor on the tip of everyone’s fashionable tongues but they have been out there and as far as I can tell ... rather invisible to most of us.

The point here is exposure as this reviewer still holds to the tenet that knowledge is power and the more you know the more you proceed in a sage and intelligent manner.  Just offering an opinion is not enough for me, there needs to be substance that backs up ones opinions!  Digressions aside… here are 2 that maybe you will dismiss and maybe you will opt to delve deeper into their histories.

Again, the point is exposure …. Not criticism... so have a look at 2 of the “unseen” designers who were active participants in the haute Couture collection this past week in Paris...

Valentino Haute Couture fall 2013

As anyone who keeps up with my reviews will tell you, the reviews are rarely favorable when it comes to Valentino.  What remains a constant is that Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli are amazingly full of bravado, if not brazen, when it comes to technique, materials, quality and workmanship; but to me, it stops there!  Their design esthetic evades me practically every season since they began.

Here’s the rub for the Fall 2013 Haute Couture … my take is that the clothes, design wise, are surely not on my top 5 or even top 10 …  BUT, if there was ever a collection that embraced, lauded, utilized and shined a klieg light on the abilities of couture ateliers… this collection shoots to the top of the list!

For me, the whole monastic, somber tone of the seemingly robotic models  and clothes as well as  the presentation are not appealing.  The almost matronly lengths, silhouettes, hair and make up, fall flat in my eyes.  The color palette is bland, almost yawn worthy,  and without excitement.  If I was so inclined I might pick the collection apart but there is no point as once again, we need to be reminded that these clothes have an instant customer approval rating and it will be they who judge the success or failure of the collection.  BUT … there are some absolutely stellar pieces hidden amongst all the ennui.

The awe inspiring aspects of the collection are the embellishments, the fabrications, the workmanship and the finish of these garments which are all above any criticism that can be offered.  All of this is just mesmerizing and has no equal … not even the “modern couture” of Dior.  If one thinks of it, Valentino is the antithesis of that Raf “modern manifesto” as these clothes could not scream any louder that they are ONLY for the endlessly rich and reek of the heritage that is particular to the haute couture.

Bravo to the designers for fluently speaking the language of the Haute Couture.  It is just a pity that the clothes do not equal the sum of their parts.

Jean Paul Gaultier haute couture fall 2013

Wow! OMFG! Astounding!  Just a few choice words to describe one of Haute Couture’s shining moments.  The occasion was the Fall collection of Jean Paul Gaultier.  I guess he didn't get the Raf memo about “modern Couture’ because this was a collection that reeked of the heritage and the tenets of what is true and genuine Haute Couture.

The excitement that was experienced by seeing a collection like this is palpable to the point of experiencing a visual orgasm.  First there is the spectacle which was ONLY about the clothes and not the set and not the venue and not the blah blah blah. Style .com will be at a loss if they have to discuss the clothes and WWD might just give it a nod as being just more of the same, but trust me gang, this was freaking AMAZING!

Yes this is JPG using the brand DNA and pounding it home with such great ease and such grace that it boggles the mind.  As this reviewer has said countless times, first and foremost it must be remembered that JPG is a tailor and one can’t help but see it here.  He honed his “chic” when he was at the helm at Hermes and once he began doing Haute Couture, it was unmistakable not  to have known that this once enfant terrible of fashion had grown yup and mastered the art of chic!

The overall excitement of the collection is literally drool inducing… one cannot help but marvel at the imagination and technique and VISION that this man had when he put this all together.  The hair, the drama, the palette, the CLOTHES, the workmanship and all at once you were just rendered slack jawed by breadth of this collection.

Are you getting the point here? This was just stupefyingly, jaw droppingly and startlingly fabulous.  Sorry it wasn’t as exciting as the pile that was offered as” Modern Couture” but hell, Monsieur Gaultier will just have to try harder next season… that is to say if he is not stampeded by the those of the 1% who can afford to won one of these masterpieces.

The upshot is, please don’t think for a hot second that every single piece was beyond criticism but when the big picture is as boundless as this… who cares?  I was a little put off by the Lady Marmalade/Larry Legaspi looking pieces as well as the way way over top ones but then again, once I thought about what it took to render these pieces with such precision, my feelings were ameliorated. Take that Tim!

 I can gush no more but please feast your eyes and please do look for a complete slideshow of the presentation.

BTW... Thanks JPG for being so old fashioned …………………..NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and did I mention the leopard!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Rami Al Ali Haute Couture fall 2013

This week the term “modern couture” entered the vocabulary of fashion thanks to Raf Simons who thought he delivered what modern couture should look like.  Unfortunately for him, talk is cheap but in his case he does love the sound of his own voice while he espouses all this drivel while thinking the clothes will get better once he spreads to word… WRONG!

 

Rami Al Ali DID deliver modern couture with his Fall 2013 collection.  Mr. Al Ali accomplished his feat of modern couture by using the clothes to speak for themselves, hence no blah blah blah!  Raf might want to try it some time.  Mr. AA used all the “unmodern” methods of couture therefore yielding dresses and gowns that are not for everyone and certainly not even for the total 1%.

 

One must sit back in awe of a designer who actually designs, not only the actual garments but explores the materials and methods used to embellish his collection.   What stands out in my mind are the rectangular sequins or mini plates/scales and that exquisitely mini sequin/seed bead all over embroidered tulle which created a fabric of almost impossible delicacy and beauty.  What a concept not to use plastic coated fabrics and techno fabrics as the reason to call your clothes modern couture!

 

So, not only has Mr. AA displayed his technical expertise when it comes to his embellishments and embroideries but the “make” on the clothes is exquisite.  He achieves an incredible lightness and almost ethereal quality which is no small accomplishment especially when the pieces are so “decorated.”  I tip my hat to his design abilities and his esthetic and he proves once again that “designers design.”

 

The collection covers all the bases whether bare or covered up and of course the dreaded “W” word… wearable... of course, there is that small matter of price which certainly and substantially diminishes the audience.  One again, Haute Couture is not meant for everyone and if the so called “Modern” client that Raf refers to wants techno ka ka...then she might try H&M couture or Dior!

In this case, this reviewer would so much rather be accused of being politically incorrect and loving Rami Al Ali than be politically correct and loving Dior.  One is the real deal and the other is just a pretentious pretender.

Think about it... In the meantime have a look at what genuine couture is all about!

Armani Prive by Giorgio Armani .. Haute Couture fall 2013

Just when you thought 90% all reason and taste had flown out the window, in charges Giorgio Armani on his white horse!! Yes, Raf, Mr. Armani is all about his DNA codes and the Armani vocabulary which in your book would make his collection old and tired … NOT!

Let’s just say that seemingly all 50 odd pieces of Prive wouldn’t weigh as much as 2 suits from the thoroughly modern Dior collection... laughable to be that drunk on your own Kool Aid.

With the most abbreviated of palettes Mr. Armani shows off what he does best and that is to give his ladies exactly what they want .. Whether it is an impeccably tailored day or evening suit, a drop dead evening gown or something for low key relaxed evenings when you just don’t want a gown.  In a word, the clothes are sublime.

The big picture is about the assets of a collection and not its debits.  Anyone who knows the breadth of the Armani body of work knows that he has a propensity for some design transgressions that don’t always sit well with critics and to that I say... who cares??

Even though Mr. Armani arrived late to the “party” that we know as Haute Couture, his percentages for arresting and spectacular collections far outweigh any particular misstep within a collection.  This season is no different.  There is only once collection that comes to mind that was heavy on deficits and so I say... who cares!

With all the philosophies and blah blah blah that have been expounded upon, transmitted and written about, the end result is always the same. .. Were the clothes beautiful or not?  Yes, it is largely dependent on whether or not one’s eye is tuned into the same channel as the designer but in my head there is a universal unbiased opinion that rules all esthetics. 

Words don’t make clothes beautiful.  Designers design if they have the talent.  Every designer should be held to the same standards and there should be no leverage offered just because they have “mother ships” behind them as backers.

Bottom line is simply this, Mr. Armani does what he excels at his craft and he really doesn’t give a crap if you like it because well.... how large is your business in dollars and cents?  And, oh yeah, he owns it ALL.  It is his way or the highway and if you piss him off, you are banished and end up whining to regain entry.

Brava Mr. Armani!