Gareth Pugh ... fall 2015 ... London..

We have seen so many collections that can be considered “me too”  and “ so what”  that the mind boggles, let alone allows all of that “stuff” to just mentally blend together into one big bore. We have even seen designers who have offered their collections in all black  .…  2 of the 3 that come to  mind did it with great success and élan while one should never have been placed within this arena. The Wanger is not in the same caliber or class as Thom Browne or Gareth Pugh no matter what someone might think. The latter 2 are masters of their craft who outshine an ever growing fashion community that fosters ordinary talents rather than extraordinary talents.

Jumping off my soapbox here, the reason for this review is to examine Gareth Pugh and his collection for Fall 2015. Years ago when he presented his first collection, this young designer made an indelible impression in my overcrowded fashion centric mind. The reason for this was that it was clear this was a young man who actually designed. He was unfettered by any commercial aspects of fashion and he wasn’t interested in some absurd trend. You might be thinking “who is writing this?” as my wont is to discuss salability in so many of my reviews but here was a case where talent superseded any of those aspects.

In the evolution of Gareth Pugh we see he has indeed thought of selling these clothes and not just to rarefied clientele of those like Daphne Guinness and Michelle Harper. Don’t get me wrong, these are not clothes for Mrs. Stepford of Long Island or for the bar mitzvah mother from the North Shore. These clothes are those which remind us that fashion could and is considered an art. The collection is brooding, austere, stark, architectural, dramatic, and head and shoulder above what we have seen to date. Within the collection, in mind, there were references to Comme des Garcons, Rick Owens, McQueen, and even Balmain... yes…  Balmain! Look again!! In the end these are clothes for those who seriously collect fashion or have the means and the eye to stand out from the flock.

Having just completed a book about Charles James, it became apparent to me that Pugh, like McQueen, utilized techniques that Charles James had used which were taken from millinery design. The fabric molding which is a heat and cool process germane to hat blocking that achieves sculptural shapes is quite apparent multiple times within the collection.

Watching a designer like this evolve is one of the great joys of fashion let alone a raison d’etre for my reviews and writing. He restores the faith in me that not everyone of this younger generation does the blah blah blah routine. Gareth Pugh has his inspirations and references but it is the clothes that speak the loudest and not the background verbiage justifying the output.

The visuals are astounding and filled with high impact and a level of  creativity and ability that is rarely seen on runways anywhere. The overall visuals are arresting, to say the least, but in the end, it is the clothes you focus on and once again, might I remind you this is a business of selling clothes not moods and blah blah blah.

Tom Ford fall 2015

Okay, Cheerio … Wotcha … or Ay-up … to all … and London has officially begun….

Tom Ford kicks off London by showing in LA with his typical bravura and as usual there isn’t too much to back up all the hoopla and hype. Let’s just say that this season he has calmed his boobie fetish and at least covered them but if one wants to talk about variations on a theme... well then you have come to the right place.

Amazing as it is, Mr. Ford seems to think that he can build a collection with a peplum top, very Ungaro 80’s, and whip that top into a  frenzy by adding fringe to it, changing the neckline, short skirt, long skirt, dress with 3 tiers, dress with 4 tiers, straight sleeve , ruffle cuff and I’m pretty sure even more than that. If the variations are not enough then you can opt for one of the fabric mixes he offers in these same silhouettes.

Let’s talk about macramé. Yes you recall that, or maybe you don’t if your resume starts in 1990 or so. To give you a quick synopsis, macramé was employed in everything from plant holders to clothing and everything in between during the height of the 70s. Yes, it was a primary source of distinction when it came to accessories as seen here some 40 years later. The fact is, it was too artsy for my taste then and it that hasn’t changed.

Then there was patchwork denim, a minor ode to Mugler and Montana with the fringe and cardigan suit and then those shoulder pads in the suit and the dress. I’m guessing he figured no one would notice. Moving right along we get to the sort of Peter Max’ish, Josef Albers, op art, Marimekko, Design Research kind of graphics that inhabited or infiltrated everything from home décor to fine art. Add leopard and fur to the mix and there you have it!!

Rather than blather on and on about the obvious, let’s just say that the collection was... yes... designed and more reality based than his last forays, that he does manage to make extravagantly expensive clothes look very cheap, that this was surely no great shakes despite all the attention it will get for no good reason thank god we won’t have to look at pasties on the red carpet tomorrow night.. Well not owing to him anyway.

In the end it is just a YAWN! Must be hell working those thrift stores and flea markets ….

PS.. I want to see the woman who goes out to dinner wearing that macramé skirt.. when she stands up her ass will still be sitting

Ralph Lauren fall 2015

Call it taupe, call it tan call anything you want but call it what it is .. FABULOUS!  Yes, it seems this is the same reaction that this collection elicits from me every season but it must be said AGAIN.. how can  it be that this man can deliver collections season after season that continue to be fresh chic and so tasty when in actuality there is not much new here.

Ralph Lauren and team have the most uncanny sense of how to make everything old new again and seemingly better than the last time. There are no silly stylist tricks like having the models wear man-brogues so that the clothes look more Celine/ Prada/Chloe trendoid… my bad??  You know of whom I refer here. This is strictly doing what Ralph Lauren does best and never abandoning what he stands for like so many who search every season for a new customer.

Whether it is lace, leather, cashmere, crepe or wool, the look is all his. He manages to incorporate and interpret every trend into HIS look for HIS customer and there are legions of them with good reason. While the world is employing feathers to emphasize evening,  It is Ralph  who ever so casually pairs a feather skirt with a cashmere sweater and the same for a beaded skirt, it is he who shows the power of black on black whether for day or evening in leather or satin and crepe. It is Ralph who manages to show his smoking in yet another incarnation and it is he who so effortlessly offers a whole cohesive look for anytime of the day.

Someone needs to either take lessons from this man or someone needs to explain how this can be. Why is it that none of this looks tired and yet none of it is really new? Why is it that he seemingly doesn’t have to try so hard while so many labor at it and fail? Why is it that his clothes require no explanation to make sense?

PS .. if I was a betting man.. I might say that the fawners will find fault with this and yet drool over so much crap that they think is so new so fashion and will be the markdowns of the future! .. someone might want to rethink this by line … opulent… effortless ... clothes from a master .. Apparently it was erroneously attributed to another designer

Oscar de la Renta by Peter Copping .. NYFW ..Fall 2015

With what might have been the most anticipated show of NYFW, it is a pleasure to be able to put in writing that it was a glorious start for Peter Copping. In fact one might even go so far as to say … bravo!

There is no question that this man was put in the most unenviable position that any designer might be placed in during his career. Yes, he was handpicked by Mr. de la Renta but he spent not a minute of time working with him as Mr. de la Renta’s death put the kibosh on that plan. So this was Mr. Copping relying on the design team and his gut to lead him in the proper direction. To say he reached his destination with barely a bump in the road would be a gross understatement.

The collection demonstrated a restraint and respect for what was built during Oscar’s life and career and took tiny baby steps ahead to the future. The clothes oozed chic and more than satisfied what was expected in a way that so many designers would have quickly eschewed. Copping will no doubt make his mark in time but for now he is holding to the vocabulary of the house and the brand and massaging the DNA. KUDOS!

From the embroideries to the shapes to the shoes to the jewelry, it was all about the legacy and codes of the brand. If one had to make a minor observation, it would be that the lengths on the gowns and strapless dresses seem to be a problem but that will easily be remedied in the future. As for any other missteps they are so minor when the “big picture’ is taken into account.

What can be said is that Peter Copping passed the biggest hurdle and that was to be liked and respected, both of which IMHO he did with flying colors. What happens next … well we shall see soon enough.