Tuesday, October 6, 2015
CHANEL Spring 2016 PFW
Flight
of fancy … in full flight … Final approach ... touchdown … cockpit queen … Ladies and gentlemen, the Kaptain Karl has turned on the
Fasten Seat Belt sign… At this
time, we request that all mobile
phones,
pagers, radios and remote controlled toys be turned off for the full duration
of the flight … Flight attendants, prepare for take-off please …Cabin
crew, please take your seats for take-off… enjoy the flight
and thank you for flying Karl Air ... the airline of Kaisers!
As time
passes Karl has done presentations that are so outrageously huge as to conjure
that it is all about a what sticks to the wall kind of design philosophy. The most
amazing aspect of designing a collection of this enormity is that he and the
house offer possibilities, they don’t command a look other than the classics.
Lagerfeld’s genius lies in his ability to show you the most extreme and
outrageous but there are always the “money shots.” The phrase here meaning that
there are ALWAYS the pieces that will ring registers and make them sing SALES! Yes
scarily so, the business of fashion is about selling clothes and in this case
everything that bears the Chanel name. Those Wertheimers were nothing if not
brilliant by owning every facility that produces anything under the Chanel
awning.
This
collection is dizzying in its mutantly huge size and its endless offerings. If you
take a collection like this at face value, meaning only as shown, then you lose
out on the brilliance of a presentation like this. This is all about dissecting
and maybe even confusing the customer but make no mistake this is all about
that commercial enterprise known as retail selling. Whether the ugly clear booties
(hate them) or the bib necklaces or the luggage or any of the accessories ...
this is about selling and feeding that every hungry beast known as the Chanel
client! They will eat this up no matter the antics and yes, there will even be some
who want to look as ridiculous as some of Karl’s proposals for a look.
Please
don’t take my words the wrong way; I do not think this collection is superb,
when I actually see some of it as quite clumsy, if not downright unattractive. No,
I don’t think the plaids are very flattering not a lot of the silhouettes either
but again it is looking beyond what is in front of you! This is a study in
dissection. One must always keep in mind that Karl is crazy like a fox... he is
fully aware of what he does... none of this is happenstance. This is a
calculated presentation to dwarf all others and to flex the muscle that ONLY
Chanel has as a brand. Whereas the Hedis or Rafs or Toms or Nickys or that
Gucci boy thrive on attention and their supposed intellect Karl just gives them
all the finger and continues to do what he does best.. Incite and ignite and
SELL!
Labels:
Chanel,
coco chanel,
fashion by the rules,
jeffrey felner,
karl lagerfeld,
pfw,
spring 2016
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