Before we get to the clothes, let’s speak of the designer Olivier Rousteing! This young man has talent to spare, he has mad talents and apparently he understands the making of his clothes. What he lacks is restraint, an editor’s pencil and a focus. This collection could easily be more than one or it could be one very concise very precise collection with laser focus than shows him and brand off to maximum effect.
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Let me say that if a designer want to launch a handbag collection which apparently there is a great push to do at this brand, one must believe that there are better ways of doing it than slapping a B or some fringe on a wannabe Chanel quilted bag or onto an Hermes Kelly/Birkin bag. While on the subject of “influences” Rousteing needs to cut down the “Chanelisms” that he seems to use a little too frequently and flagrantly during the collection.
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Now, the thing here is that what’s the direction of the collection... it’s fitted, it’s shapeless, it’s long, it’s short it’s simple, it’s way more than just complicated and well you get the picture... he is all over the place. Yes, I love the art deco influenced prints and one might extrapolate the Chrysler Building from the print assortment BUT everything has a limit and there is a breaking point when it’s overkill. Overkill is something that pervades Rousteing’s offerings as he has a tendency to do so much that they all start to look the same and the potency of the collection is diminished.
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All of HIS Balmain signatures are in place, save the denims thank god, and the maxi brim fedora adds great panache but again you gotta know when to say die and stop! Where is his “keeper” … the person whispering in his ear who says that’s enough or we already have that or why do we need that … and that’s what separates a great collection from a collection killer.
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Conglomerates are pouring huge amounts of euros into these brands without a watchful eye to rein them in or direct them so what exactly is the point other than the hype which we all know does not lead to sales especially at this price point!
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