Monday, June 24, 2019

CELINE men’s spring 2020


Think Tony Manero meets Peter Berlin meets the disco Romeo meets Joe college meets thrift shop jackets and there you have it in a nutshell... that is Celine for spring. 
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Yes, we wore center creased jeans, yes our pants were more high waisted than low slung and yes there were lots of cropped jackets so the point is that it’s hardly news. Now Hedi’s competition is Tom Ford who has been recycling the 70s and 80s since day one. Throw in a couple of ornate varsity jackets, one absurd cape and lots of pointy shoes which look like cowboy boots... yes we wore those too.  But, instead these are woven tasseled loafers. There was even a denim overalls moment that he seemed to latch onto, leather pants were not quite the rage yet but unquestionably it was a denim era. What shocks me is that he didn’t hit upon platform shoes and 3 inch heels as footwear but he hit upon the vintage dinner jacket moment of that time. One other thing he missed was the fitted suit jackets.. nipped waists were so timely!
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On the positive side it’s  really all very wearable  albeit not very original and if  it’s not jillions of dollars you too can look ordinary so it’s a slam dunk at retail unless of course the trendoids start scouring the thrift shops  tomorrow. 
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In the 70s I was already waist deep in Versace, Jupiter, Jeff Sayres as well as Basile as the Europeans were just starting to take hold in menswear. I don’t recall ever wearing my jeans with a blazer though it’s possible and I do recall wearing a hunter’s fedora with my jeans and dark glasses. I remember all those Levi-esque jackets but not so much the varsity letter/bomber jackets that he went so deeply into. 
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And Hedi even manages a few... and I mean a few... newer looking jackets and outerwear pieces that didn’t scream 70s.

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