International fashion & style; Lemaire PFW fall 2015

What wonderful way to begin this last chapter of Fall 2015. Lemaire reminds that simple and clean and precise is not boring when handled properly. What is also abundantly clear is that this collection can serve as an object lesson for so many i.e. the Row, Jil Sander and a few more.

There are no rich bag lady clothes here. The clothes are precise but easy, they have an edge yet they have a great softness to them. One must then believe that the deft hand that creates these clothes knows exactly who his client is and what she comes to them for clothes to wear every day. Yes, again, these are clothes for women who have a career of just women who enjoy a good life and no these are not picking up the kids from soccer or Taekwon-Do instruction but no one would notice if they were worn to do those chores.

These are unobtrusive clothes that send that silent scream/signal of refinement, high quality and even a certain amount of swagger. Yes. They are very Parisian  but wildly cosmopolitan for any big city gal and maybe just any women who wants to wear the best and look her best and not look like some wannabe 20 year old or some old lady in a her daughters clothes. These are ageless and timeless clothes that build a wardrobe and never go out of style.

Imagine if editors understood that this is what modern looks like and not Proenza Schouler than looks like some design school project or that crap that Rodarte turns out at stratospheric prices. This is what the Row could look like if they didn’t cast their customer as a rich bag lady or had the eye  and maybe the powers that be at Jil might take note that it is possible to design spartan clothes without crossing the line to silly. And no, I do not believe that this is the end all do all but I do know that this is one facet of fashion that is so poorly addressed so often  by those who are ill equipped to deliver a product that is this precise, this discerning and this ageless.

Dsquared² MFW Fall 2015

When the Catens aka Mickey and Judy,  put on a show it always me reminds me of those old Judy Garland and Mickey Rooney musicals where one inevitably turns to the other and says “why don’t we put on a show” and so they do with a chorus of 50 extras singing and dancing, all fully costumed.

That’s how I see these shows as they really are just formulaic spectacles designed to entertain rather than promote anything else. One might postulate that ese  show are nothing more than PR events  to promote the brand rather than show a new collection. 

This season is about Eskimos and Indians and nomads and maybe even some AWOL period soldiers, banditos or some extras from the Road to Morocco or maybe 2000B.C.

So with all that base information, you can expect to see parkas and Indian blankets, serapes, trapper hats, military jackets and even some tights that look like full body henna tattoos. Put it all together and “Let’s put on a fashion show!” My bad here or what?

Oops and it almost slipped my mind to mention the trapper furs which still might have teeth marks from the steel traps and the trapper boots or maybe they are caveman boots with fur lashed onto them …. The purpose of such folly evades me as even if there is something to be seen here one needs to strip away the multitudinous layers of stuff that will camouflages it, I  doubt anyone needs a new jean or a new cargo pant that falls under the category of unwearable .. or for that matter dresses that look like the undergarments of a nickle a dance chorus girls from the local saloon.

Giorgio Armani fall 2015 MFW

The blues are what I've turned to, what has given me inspiration and relief in all the trials of my life.... said Armani’s friend Eric Clapton

It was once said that the Italians’ idea of black was navy blue

I am not sure and highly doubt that Armani turned to the “blues” due to any trial or tribulation but one must admit that this man is a jacket virtuoso that puts the rest of the flock to shame. Fall 2015 is just this bazaar, an endless array of jackets, from the softest to the tailored and from the abbreviated to fingertip length, there isn’t a length left untouched. Armani also takes a big stand for daywear which has been so lacking in most collections due to the inability of most to tackle the issue.

Besides his rainbow of blues, Armani makes a mighty statement for pants as better than 90% of what we saw was shown with pants and that seemed pretty good to me as the collection had that chic easy  no-outfit way of being put together. Just . .. “Oh this  ... Something I just threw on!”  Whether true or not isn’t the point, the point is that the collection is seemingly uncontrived yet we all know it was carefully calculated and orchestrated.

As with every season for this collection, there is some “armani’ism” that reveals itself and this season was no different. There is always one little quirky aspect or design flourish that is omnipresent, whether a hat or flower or pocket square, and this season it was a peter pan collar used as a necklace of sorts. Yes, a flat fabric collar that seemed to be decorating the necks of most models. What was so odd about it was the fact that it seemed somewhat casual/helter-skelter in its placement... Sometimes a bit askew and sometimes perfectly placed. It is highly unlikely this was an afterthought and seems to be so at odds with the demeanor of the collection but in the general scheme of things, it is minor.

One couldn’t help but notice that for the first time in a long time, there were very few entrance making dresses or gowns and it is possible that he has decided to let Prive handle that aspect of his world. No matter, as this was a complete show of the power and prowess of Giorgio Armani.  Make no mistake, Armani is a tailor and this season he reminds you of it endlessly and effortlessly with unending variations.

PS... If you are not an Armani fan or of tailored clothing then this is not for you but if you appreciate a designer who takes a stand for what he is known for, well then here it is in spades!

Salvatore Ferragamo fall 2015 MFW.

 So let’s begin with the positives about Fall 2015. In a rare moment of reality during this season, Massimiliano Giornetti turned his focus towards day clothes. You would have to agree that in a season fraught with dressy clothes and red carpet gowns, few have thought to offer clothes that women might wear in their everyday lives or while traveling. Granted, these are not soccer mom, pick up the kids and car pool clothes BUT they are clothes that cosmopolitan women would wear while out for a day of shopping, lunch with the girls or a day of meetings at the office.

There were a ton of knit possibilities including what appeared to be a wool lace, lots of ponchos, throws, dresses and a take on a tennis which was particularly fabulous and should have been further exploited.  A recurring theme was what I dubbed “kaleidoscopic color blocking” (sort of a cross between Albers and Marimekko) which was used with great élan and skill whether in outerwear, wools, furs or silk. This sort of patchwork or blocking seems to be epidemic in this season’s collections but not always utilized it the most successful ways as we have already seen. Giornetti accomplished this trend easily and appealingly while others struggled rather awkwardly. While on the subject of trend, it should be noted that Giornetti’s use of fur was far more palatable and chic than what has been seen as he chose to use it gracefully instead of  some slab of fur slapped onto a coat or jacket. 

One last trend which appeared here and everywhere  was that of this odd fascination with box pleats that has permeated the runways. As I have previously stated, this is an enigma to me BUT Giornetti’s deft hand showed it off the best by using the art and craft of the brand when he employed those mock pleats in butter soft leathers.

While on the subject of assets … We should discuss the tailoring aspect which was in full view and again much to the brand’s credit. Great jackets dresses and coats which were subtle yet fashionable and stylish…. In other words not too bland and not overworked ... dirty word alert ... salable. Great handbags and belts were in evidence but I am on the fence about the shoes. Giornetti is ever of the fabric adventurers and within this collection he struck upon one more innovation to notch onto  his belt and that is the mock ribbing which he accomplished with narrow leather strips … actually very amazing!

In the end this was not a tour de force collection but it was a collection that is aimed at the Ferragamo client and is meant to worn and not just admired or stored away for a special occasion. In other words, this is a collection that is meant to ring registers and build the bottom line. Certainly not a bad thing despite what will be said…