What might seem as an unlikely duo is actually quite a well
matched paring in my mind. Both designers utilize their tailoring skills to
achieve the most precise product. Lemaire comes from the school of clean, slick
and modern as only a graduate of Hermes would know and he surely delivers his
vision of modern, minimal and timeless apparel for men. Van Beirendonck comes
from a more conceptual/ inspirational and artistic design ethic and yet the
parallels are quite apparent… to me anyway!!
Opposites do indeed attract … especially if you strip away
the most blatant and obvious differences. Both designers are master tailors and
if you can look past the most obvious from Beirendonck you can see how
exquisite the workmanship is which and what bears comparison to Lemaire. The
jackets, coats, throws, even the pants, just reek of fine tailoring. While
Lemaire has a much more classic palatable/understandable approach, van
Beirendonck offers a more trend driven fashion scenario. The latter is not
about trend as we know it or think of it, but his own personal vision for the
season. I know I keep beating that Gucci horse to death but one would not have to
look much further than these two abundantly talented men who could have
certainly taken the reins of that ailing brand and made some magic.
So let’s just do a quick mental review of Lemaire and take
note of the surplice/ wrap tops, the edges, the precise tailoring, the minimal
layering and palette, the use of the safarienne, pea jackets, cardigans, the
patch pockets and the lower placement of breast pockets just to offer a few
features. The throws/ ruanas/ scarves are just enough to give that chic and
soigne edge to these clothes. Simple shapes are taken to the height of fashion
via nuance and superb craftsmanship, fit and workmanship.
Van Beirendonck offers many of these qualities but with a
greater sense of humor and even more craftsmanship if you include the
conceptual pieces. So much of what he shows might be at the elevated levels of
ateliers rather than just mere workrooms. The tailoring is sublime and the
patterning (ikats) and novelty prints are for those us who go beyond black and
grey. The full legged pant is reminiscent of Hollywood glory days and the “art”
sweaters are just that… art! ... but masterpeices. These are clothes that
combine fantasy and reality and offer the wearer an opportunity to stretch his
imagination. Even the palette is just so inviting and off kilter than it is
hard to resist if you truly love fashion.
My question is simple... Do you dare?
