Saint Laurent fall 2015

To quote Dolly Parton.. it costs a lot of money to look this cheap! Or if you prefer .. A little bad taste is like a splash of paprika. We all need a splash of bad taste-it's hearty,healthy- physical. No taste is what I'm against… so DV might have an ax to grind with Hedi...not to mention she would be drowning in an ocean of paprika!

It is hard to focus on the clothes with all the moaning that goes on during these so called  fashion shows. Oh you know, all the gasping and OMG’s and what there should be is head shaking and lots of tsk tsk tsk. OH PUHLEEZ!!!

So this season we graduate from rock and roll to punkers in tutus … bad tutu dresses! YIPPEE!  This must surely be the best thing since sliced bread. That’s right, holes and slits and grungy looking chicks and maybe even a heroin needle when you purchase a whole look for around 10 grand … QUEL GWP! It is boring beyond words and forces me to believe that I have written this review at least 3 other times.

How can it be that those furs look like they still have bullet holes in them and are constructed form armpits and (f)assholes? While on the subject, It is rare that one can say that the clothes being shown look like they must smell from stake cigarette smoke and whiskey or beer.

I leave Blah Blah and Suzy Muchless and maybe even Madame Hornier to rave about the emperor’s new clothes and as for me this is all just plain tired and so what!

PS.. no I do not care who was in the front row  and no I do not care where this was held  and no I really don’t give a crap about what his inspirations are,  were or will be! And BTW.. great drag wardrobe!

Givenchy by Ricardo Tisci fall 2015

Well it was heading this way after seeing Early fall and now he has arrived. Ricardo Tisci has apparently gotten or received the message that he is poised to be the next favorite son of Bernard Arnault. If I had to hazard a guess, Tisci can become to Givenchy what Galliano once was to Dior. Thinking about it … There is very little advertising, expansion  or promotion done for Givenchy as a brand to date and now that Raffie has proven to not be up to the talk …  well.. Makes sense don’t you think?

Pre-fall and men’s both presaged this collection without a doubt. You almost knew this was coming given the content and mood of those 2 collections which set the stage for what was seen yesterday. This was Tisci in high gear showing off that he is indeed capable of pulling off a collection that is more than just hype, trendoid wear, celebrities and image. This was one of those moments that you wait for every season when a brand truly flexes its muscles and … well… does a pose down! (Google it)

This was Tisci the tailor on steroids; there was an overriding Edwardian/Victorian vibe that permeated the show. One could not ignore the designer’s particular vocabulary used in the funeral like procession of glam widows. BTW, all those face jewels!! Who cares?? They just served as some unnecessary theatrics which only detracted from the clothes. Next time Ricky Ticky you need to think instead of indulging a whim!

Okay, the clothes were exquisitely rendered in lush fabrics and with great precision, Jackets and coats were by far the great stars here, the dresses while beautiful were not as extraordinary as the jet beaded coats and the military inspired tailcoats. Actually in particular, there were a few dresses that were kissing cousins to those tailcoats and they were right up there for sure. Interesting, is that the proportion of red carpet pieces was relatively minor in comparison the breadth of the collection. Taking that into account, take note that these are clothes to be worn and not just by celebrities and at major photo op events. If there was something I took umbrage at, it was the unfinished torn raw edges that were used; it didn’t make sense to me that given the level of execution he resorted only to have those unfinished edges… unless of course that was the point … a contrapposto so to speak! Look it up! I would be remiss if I didn’t point out the not so easy to wear but fabulous built in corsetry of some pieces and 2 pretty great fur jackets. If there was a sore point, for me, it was the prints which were not great and not all that appealing but once again prints are so particular.

My biggest question here is this... Is this a detour or is this now the path of the designer and the brand?

Akris by Albert Kriemler pfw fall 2015

It is worth repeating that once upon a time Akris was a collection for ladies who had tea at Charleston Gardens and shopped at The Salon at Elizabeth Arden. Since Albert Kriemler has taken the reins of this brand he has transformed it to a temple of chic and consummate good taste!

Don’t get me wrong, it is not like there are no bumps in the road but when he strikes a note as he did with this collection, well, it is just pretty fabulous all around. Granted this is a minimalistic way of dressing but it still allows a woman to draw attention when entering a room or walking in the street. These are truly slick, modern and soigne. They are simply exquisite from an esthetic and technical point of view.

It is odd that what I am reminded of here is Zoran, google if you must, and possibly some Cardin but that is only because of the remarkable lack of embellishment or extravagant ornamentation. In other words, there are clothes that are about cut, fit, construction and quality and yes they silently scream rich! Mr. Kriemler has always been one to experiment with patterns and fabrics and with this season’s offering he has really hit his stride. His subtle use of patterns and embellishment are quite a feat of refinement and restraint yet when combined with the art and craft of fashion, there are few who compare.

The collection is one that possesses extreme edge and yet amazing softness. Again, these are not clothes for everyone and every occasion but these are surely clothes that cater to that small percentage of women who possess rarefied taste as well as a very healthy budget. No matter, as I would rather have any one of this collection matched up against any 5 pieces of Dior or any other mega brand.

PS .. You want modern …you want minimal ... You want that athletic inspiration embraced … well this is it

Chloé by Clare Waight Keller fall 2015

Trousers draggin', slowly draggin' through the street
Yes, I'm walking, but I'm walking without feet... came to mind after seeing this collection. By the way, those are lyrics written in 1932 and certainly seem prescient in the 21^st century.

Let me get this all clear in my head here... we have: lace trimmed satin skirts that look like slisp with sweaters and leather bags, and then we have a slew of floor length coats. We also have coats that look like they are a few sizes to big so that the wearer is  literally swallowed up in them , then we have some hippie bleached out denim stuff and lest us forget the patchwork quilt patterns. So let me sum this up, we have 60s, 70’s 80’s 90’s and just about anything else that stuck to the wall and paste that all together and you have Fall 2015. You can see a little Annie Hall, a little peasant, a lot of droopy stuff and yet this is supposed to be what women will pay 1000s to look like! I think not!

 

For me this is just one more thrift shop based collection in search of a customer. This is surely not the Chloe of Karl Lagerfeld and Gaby Aghion. This looks like it should be in Urban Outfitters not Neiman Marcus. Clare Waight Keller can surely find better inspirations and interpret them better than what she is presently running out. At best it looks like contemporary sportswear and surely not designer collection. Again, who is steering the ship here other than the accountants?