Sunday, June 18, 2017

Salvatore Ferragamo men's spring 2018



Some will say... well that is a crashing bore of a collection but I say that Massimiliano Giornetti cast the die that remains intact as the DNA for the brand now that the baton has been passed to Guillaume Meilland. Salvatore Ferragamo has reinvented itself as an apparel brand since its true claim to fame is shoes and they have done it by offering real clothes for real people. It is my belief that they understand who their client is and how to appeal to their audience.
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For me this latest incarnation holds a plethora of wonderful pieces that … oh wait a minute while I describe them in the most profane fashion speak … wearable, ageless, salable, grown up and sophisticated. One must look past the somewhat silly casting, though not as bad as so many other brands,  and see the sprezzatura of the collection; easy understandable clothes for men. You have blazers, pants which were fuller in shape, shorts, great knits, laser cut leather/suede and you can forgive the unfortunate printed velvets although the coat is very rock n roll. If you are looking for a collection to set the fashion tongues wagging … move on, but if you want salable beautifully made nuanced classics then you have landed in the right place. A particular favorite is that “cowlish” or soft turtleneck neck line used as underpinning that just screams easy and soft.
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On the topic of favorites … polka dot shirtings, great outerwear, the cotton fisherman sweater reimagined and of course the laser cut dotted leather or suede shirts. The extra wide cuff was a nice touch although just a design flourish for the runway and how refreshing to actually see a variety of footwear including real leather shoes and not just trainers/sneakers or athletic inspired. While on that train of thought, how further refreshing not to see yet still more jogging or track pants or hoodies.
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I tip my hat to the brand and this designer especially at a time when most collections are either so bland as to induce a coma or so me too as to have lost their identity.