Some will say... well that is a crashing bore of a
collection but I say that Massimiliano Giornetti cast the die that remains intact
as the DNA for the brand now that the baton has been passed to Guillaume
Meilland. Salvatore Ferragamo has reinvented itself as an apparel brand since its
true claim to fame is shoes and they have done it by offering real clothes for
real people. It is my belief that they understand who their client is and how
to appeal to their audience.
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For me this latest incarnation holds a plethora of wonderful
pieces that … oh wait a minute while I describe them in the most profane
fashion speak … wearable, ageless, salable, grown up and sophisticated. One must
look past the somewhat silly casting, though not as bad as so many other
brands, and see the sprezzatura of the
collection; easy understandable clothes for men. You have blazers, pants which
were fuller in shape, shorts, great knits, laser cut leather/suede and you can forgive
the unfortunate printed velvets although the coat is very rock n roll. If you
are looking for a collection to set the fashion tongues wagging … move on, but
if you want salable beautifully made nuanced classics then you have landed in
the right place. A particular favorite is that “cowlish” or soft turtleneck
neck line used as underpinning that just screams easy and soft.
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On the topic of favorites … polka dot shirtings, great
outerwear, the cotton fisherman sweater reimagined and of course the laser cut
dotted leather or suede shirts. The extra wide cuff was a nice touch although
just a design flourish for the runway and how refreshing to actually see a
variety of footwear including real leather shoes and not just trainers/sneakers
or athletic inspired. While on that train of thought, how further refreshing
not to see yet still more jogging or track pants or hoodies.
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I tip my hat to the brand and this designer especially at a
time when most collections are either so bland as to induce a coma or so me too
as to have lost their identity.
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