Tim Blanks must be thrilled he can use his word of the week... cuissardes...except for the fact that they really are
present in this collection, albeit some are in parts, as opposed to where he
thought he saw them ”slashed” yesterday.
And with that little bit of trivial pretentious nonsense out of the way... let
the games begin….
It has got to be good to be king
as no one has the abilities and balls that he has when he shows. Okay, so now I will talk about the amazingly
incredible scale of the presentation... firstly in the Grand Palais and secondly....
almost 80 freakin pieces!!! He manages
to never allow the venue to dwarf the clothes he shows and that is no small
feat given the comparative proportions.
This is HUBRIS in way that is diametrically opposed to what we saw
yesterday besides the fact that Hr. Lagerfeld has earned his right to exercise
that particular kind of arrogance!
He shows with no restraint other
than maybe a color palette and whatever his whim might be this season. This season it is all about black and white
mostly a but of color thrown in here and there,
but the story and the glory is in the black and white. One of the dangers for any Fall season is the
possibility that the clothes will look bulky or worse still will make the
wearer look …. Shall we say bulky? Mr.
Lagerfeld is not exempt from the conundrum but he overcomes with easily with
excess of styles that he shows. But, I
digress, a big fixation is the layering that is going on and it includes his
“boots’ which might comprise of 1 or 2 or 3 parts and pretty damned
amazing. The funnel neck is a recurring
theme, the modified cutaway or swallowtail jacket appears in several
incarnations and yes the pleated skirts and tweeds.
To try and describe it all is
futile, but suffice it to say when it is good, it is great and when he errs …
well so what! The overload of pieces and
nuances and possibilities can keep most manufacturers busy for years but for
Chanel, it is just another season … bless them!
Accessories are going to be
flying out of the boutiques and the silver toned metal jewelry business will experience a huge
upturn from this collection. Look out
for the Chanel version of the trapper’s hat; it will be on the streets next
fall in everything from ermine to polar fleece. The shoes are from...wait for
it … sensible to cowboy to thigh high boots or as Mr. Blank might call them …
cuissardes!
There were some truly
extraordinary little black dresses, a globe minaudiere for the most voracious
of Chanel clients, a zip front georgette vest and a tweed anorak that I thought
was incredibly modern and certainly chic.
Well, back to the beginning, it
is good to Karl and even better that he shares his profligate library of ideas
season after season there is always something to talk about … and mostly of the
good and not bad! I prefer not to think of
a time when there isn’t!
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