First thing that came to
mind when going through the images is that there is something very Helmut
Newton about the them and then you realize there is this under current of raw,
maybe perverse, louche sexiness that oozes from these clothes. They are unquestionably
razor sharp and almost erotically charged whether in their most overt moments
or completely covered up.
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Yes, these are the clothes of
rock stars and models but a long time ago I was told, by a (female) mentor of mine, that women who can afford to buy these clothes want to get laid.. or as
we used to call them get lucky quick clothes. This is not the least bit
derogatory as there is this hyper sexualized vibe that one might have gotten years
ago from collections by Emanuel Ungaro or Thierry Mugler. You can almost see and feel the ghosts of
fashion past here . .. think YSL, Ungaro, Mugler and even Gaultier.
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What is so amazing is that
the collection makes it statement in about 1/3 of the pieces by comparison
to his colleagues who seem to feel the necessity to drone on and on to make their point.
Vauthier does it in short order and with no fat to trim ... pardon the
metaphor. In my estimation, this is a skill that he has honed it with great élan.
It is most of all to be admired when fashion weeks seem to go on endlessly and
most designers opt for more is better when it comes to pieces shown.
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