What is most striking here is the razor sharp precise
silhouettes. It is an exercise in tailoring and a study in color as well as fabrication.
The tailoring is the star and even the softer pieces have an indiscernible edge
to them... there is no flou here!
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If you are paying attention there is a very limited amount
of body con styles but Ackermann chose to expand the limited vocabulary by offering color
variations which either softened or hardened the shapes. The clothes are
minimal without being boring and yet luxe without being embellished or
decorous.
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In many ways this is the antithesis of how he started with
those exquisitely lush wrapped waists and bodies in the most sumptuous of
fabrications. In essence this is lean and mean Haider. I see echoes of Mugler
present and possibly a much sharpened harsher version of possibly Jil Sander or
Armani but with a smidgeon of Cardin thrown in.
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Without question he is a designer’s designer with an appeal
to those who have a more rarefied view of fashion especially in today’s climate
of designer fashion.
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