Tuesday, June 29, 2021

Marc Jacobs Fall 2021

 All HAIL!!! The Emperor’s New Clothes have returned!

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All you label whores, media fawners and uneducated fashionphiles and influencers rejoice!

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Highly referenced, highly repetitive, heavily accessorized and almost 100% useless he’s back!

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What I did LOVE is the fresh palette and as for the rest, who cares.... from 12-inch quilted neck warmers to 5-inch EVA platform shoes right out of DSW... who cares... it is this sort of get thee to a nunnery psychedelic collection that serves no purpose and means nothing in the fashion paradigm. If I wanted to stretch my imagination, I could say the signature pieces are reminiscent of the Sprouse era but that’s if I’m generous.

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The unashamed fashion media is already finding ways to lavish praise and laud what isn’t there!

Sunday, June 27, 2021

Hermès spring men’s 2022

Even though the term sprezzatura is Italian terminology describing a sort of uncontrived way of men dressing, Veronique Nichanian proves it lives in her heart and certainly shows in her Spring collection for men. With very few missteps and not bending to the absurdity that has been weeping the men’s shows Hermès rises to nearly the top of the hierarchy of men’s fashion standing tall behind Mr. Armani.

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You might say it’s a bit like Cuccinelli or several others who have not fallen into the trend trap but at Hermès you are getting the supplest skins, fabric combinations and wonderful easy knits that have come to be shown this season BUT without a doubt this is collection jacket heaven. I almost forgot to mention she snuck in a print which was refreshing, to say the least, and paying homage to the brand’s DNA.

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I’m not saying I’d mind that epauletted camel suede tunic or a few pairs of those slouchy pants with rope belts or those dip dyed sweaters but jackets take a starring role ...oh did I forget that sueded croco dyed in pale turq, camel or possibly it’s washed denim but I do take offense to those bois de rose color and that one tee shirt that looked literally like some shredded rag.

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Ageless, classic, chic, soigné, unpretentious wearable clothes for men who can afford them and for young men to aspire to... oh the word aspire!

Saturday, June 26, 2021

Dior spring 2022 men's

All the kerfuffle in the men’s world about Kim and Virgil, Virgil and Kim about how greatly talented they are ...well... you be the judge and you decide if what they show befits their labels and exhibits any sort of talent other than turning out ridiculous, ludicrous, unwearable, wildly expensive clothes.

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Yes, Kim did do some beautiful things at Vuitton but as for Virgil, in these politically correct times, well... you get the idea because this past collection is an embarrassment to the brand but as has been said over and over ... Dior sells scent and cosmetics and Vuitton sells handbags and wallets.

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This Dior collection comes off as the logorama collection yet still comes off better than Vuitton which is totally cartoonish and DR Seuss, but Dior also has now stated that “the hip hop community is no longer dictated to by fashion, they’ve shifted the paradigm, claimed their rightful influence on the industry, and got behind the wheel.” So apparently that’s the Dior market and   same goes for Vuitton and think about the reality of him saying who the target audience is. Plus, according Kim, if one is logical the brand doesn’t need a designer just an entertainer who will direct the design rooms.

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Wanna be sustainable and all that... don’t spend zillions on shows like this and fill your stores with clothes you’ll have to ship somewhere to burn.

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Jimmy Jazz stores beware your competition is coming after you!

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Perhaps when reality sets in and truth is actually spoken about collections like this   then maybe fashion will slowly work its way back into a business of buying and selling clothes and not staging circus performances.


Thursday, June 24, 2021

Burberry spring 2022 men’s

Let’s just call it brand assassination.... oh, wait sorry. There are some pieces that might be construed as a raincoat! It all seems so familiar like we have seen it before and it remains in our collective fashion memory because we just can’t unsee it!

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This atrocity and outright murder of a brand is simply an affront as wearable or appealing or even acceptable as top shelf fashion. Shame on Burberry for allowing this and for Tisci ... the shock and awe moment of Givenchy has left the house and the horse has been beaten to death.

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Where are you wearing it, why are you wearing it, does the so-called audience even come close to affording it and lastly and why oh why would you present this as a heritage brand’s season offering?

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That is all!

Wednesday, June 23, 2021

NO NAMES THOUGH IT WON'T BE HARD TO GUESS SPRING 2022

#1-you should know these are all from the same season

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#2-you should be appalled and possibly insulted by what you’re looking at!

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#3this is the next generation of designers!

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#4-where do you draw the line between the absurd, the ridiculous and the untalented?

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#5-it’s difficult to unsee THESE atrocities and affronts to fashion, past and present, once you’ve seen them!

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Giambattista Valli resort 2022

How refreshing it is to see Valli understand and render that life is not back what it was a year ago and how women will look at dressing in a different way now, hence so much of the bells and whistles that he has taken too in the past few years are gone and what is left is a collection of pared down clothes that are easily understand able, pretty, easy to wear and pretty much ageless.

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What flummoxed me is his referencing on Chanel in so many cases or maybe he is angling for Virginie’s pedestal and the fact is that Valli could so easily assume that position. He is a designer who designs, he is more than capable when it comes to embroideries and decoration which is you notice are at a minimum in this collection.

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I’d call this Resort grouping well thought out, intelligently rendered and most appealing as it is extremely feminine. Lots of dresses and suitings but again I’m not sure why he took the Chanel route for the jackets but all in all this is a collection built for current times and not created as if the last year never happened.

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I tip my hat to “Giamba” for having the wherewithal and the brains to take such a stark turn from what he has been doing of late.

Tuesday, June 22, 2021

Giorgio Armani spring 2022 men’s

While I might not agree with the amount of short or cropped pants, I can say that long ago Mr. Armani took the jacket and gave it a whole new life and once again he has taken everything from bombers to blazers to safari jackets to cpos and given them a wonderfully rich soft look that will appeal to men who certainly haven’t been all done up in a suit and tie for the past year. I remember when he designed pajamas and then did glorious soft shirts for Paolo Montin and luscious suedes for Sicons.

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I might even say it's sort of happy joyful collection with of course perfect styling perfect casting and just a tinge of logomania. Me, personally, I wanna wear these clothes ...if not the shorts, then the jackets and if not the solids, then the prints and if not navy or black  certainly the colors. Everything has been tweaked just enough to not look foolish

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I’m not afraid to say that I am sure there is an entire suit collection the showroom but as for a show Armani gave us a relaxed calming look at how men can show themselves off to the world. Do I think this will set the world on fire...? absolutely not but hell give me a show like this and not the jokes that were shown at Prada or Fendi or so many others.

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To me, as I said, I may not agree with the shorts in such abundance but those jackets ...  oh, those jackets....  I did have to laugh how he squeaked in one or 2 all buttoned up razor sharp suits among all the soft and sometimes drapey turn outs.

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Sunday, June 20, 2021

PRADA men’s spring 2022

With almost 3 million followers and I mean that in the sense of sheep like/Jim Jones followers, Diet Prada seems to think that this iteration of Prada is Raf hitting his stride. I SAY...what stride is that is that when did he ever create anything that was noteworthy enough for him to be considered of the 21st century’s great designers.

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Diet Prada may be great at   finding retreads of old designs and such but lately it appears to me they dee, themselves the voice and authorities on EVERYTHING from fashion to race relations. The numbers don’t translate to anything other than thinking that 3 million followers make them this quasi-authoritative source of every subject to a generation that is ill informed of the present and most certainly the past.

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If you think this is fashion hitting its stride in any sense then please feel free to point out where and what that greatness in apparent. Media today is more about shock and awe and appealing to an audience where fashion has become a source of entertainment and not business. So kindly explain to me where and who is going to be wearing this on a daily basis in any kind of work-related situation. Labels don’t make clothes outstanding ...style, wearability, sales, design and no explanation needed make clothes memorable.

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So, like the rest of the media, I’ll dance around the clothes and only say, who cares about menswear that looks like this and why does the label give it any prominence or gravitas in the world today?

FENDI men’s spring 2022

It’s an embarrassment for the brand, the designer, an insult to the consumer and absolutely laughingly absurd to anyone who has been in fashion longer than a year.... it’s like Ru Paul’s Drag Race minus the feathers and sequins and beads, organza coats, bare midriffs, sissy handbags, floppy picture hats ...why not just send them out in dresses or put the clothes on female models?

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If you wanna call this f fashion   that’s your prerogative, I opt to call this a very bad joke and a collection gone haywire; it’s a good thing that Fendi is barely known for its menswear!

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BTW... where exactly would these clothes be worn and for what reason?

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