Jacquemus fall 2019

So here’s the deal... what season is this... it is a bit difficult as we seem to be still be in spring and then it’s supposed to be fall and if it’s fall it’s in a very temperate climate.

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I can’t say I loved it … I can’t say I hated it... I can say the collection needs to be dissected to find pieces that spark one’s interest. There is nothing here to set the world on fire and nothing here that will start a trend but it’s pretty. The colors are pretty despite an unseasonal designation.

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So while the media is oohing and aaaahing I sit on the fence barely being able to call it fall and trying to search out the special pieces... not the gimmicky ones… but the pieces that are slick and wearable and of the moment and yet timeless.

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And lest I forget there is one mutantly large tote bag and few other oversized bags and no hat! 

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PS... Saddle bags are not pretty no matter where you wear them and there are lots more bells and whistles this season that are just there for no reason.

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Jacquemus men’s spring 2019

Introducing the newest inductee to the Emperor’s New Clothes Hall of Fame! For once cant someone call it what it is ??

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Media fawners on your mark ... get set ....  go…………….. Oooh   aaah ….    Astounding… breathtaking … incredible … brilliant... NOT for a second!

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If ever there was a collection that looks as if it was harvested from old LANDS End and J Crew catalogues then this is it.

I mean so what!! LVMH gave him a prize and now they get behind the brand and finance an offsite show that isn’t worth the trip to the beach no matter who pays.

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Generic, boring, unimportant, pedestrian clothes… just clothes …yawn inducing … not fashion... clothes 

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Rant over ……….. always remember that clothes that require an explanation are just clothes when hanging on a rail.. the words are unimportant 

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Jacquemus fall 2018 PARIS

Okay…. yes it is eye appealing... great palette... loads of asymmetry , swathing,  draping, “U” slits, folding, a variety of lengths, harem hems, thong looking hose, caftans and  billowing dresses, second skin knits passing by and of course the “Balenciaga” hat!

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Maybe a touch of editing might have been beneficial since there were lots of repeats  or versions of … I can’t say I didn’t like it … I can’t say I loved it  … so maybe it’s best to say Jacquemus is intriguing. I return each season and each season I am never quite sure … this season the collection is either growing on me  or there is so much shit out  there that this suddenly looks good or in fact there is something untapped here that hasn’t yet fully reached its maturity.

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I actually did like and came close to loving the more tailored pieces … crisp without looking rigid and scary as it may be to some ... they looked wearable. Maybe it’s the overkill of ruching and draping and gathering and all those dressmaker peculiarities/idiosyncrasies that are throwing me or maybe it is simply that a smaller collection would have been far more of an asset in getting his message across.

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There was an odd familiarity in much of it and again I’m not sure if it’s a case of been there done that or if I simply recall past collections from this designer. There is also this issue about not really being sure what season one is looking at which can work to one’s advantage and then again it might also work against you.

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At any rate Jacquemus is really not a bad way to kick off Paris considering that Mariameatballdior will be on his heels later today or tomorrow which we know beforehand is destined to be one more disaster to add to her lengthening resume of fashion don’ts. 

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One last thing... the models actually looked happy wearing these clothes which is a HUGE plus given the robotic somnambulistic death marches that usually take place on the runway.

Jacquemus PFW fall 2017

Here’s my conundrum: I know this is a hyped up collection and frankly I can say I don’t get it but in the same breath I say who cares. Yes, the clothes appear to be beautifully made BUT explain to me why I find it so yawn worthy and boring. At first I thought it was reminiscent of Delpozo but upon second and third examination it is a distant cousin.

Yes the clothes are rooted in volume and sculptural aspects and yes many of the silhouettes are wildly exaggerated especially in the shoulder department but after that what’s left? An absence of color induces the sensation of ... Didn’t I just see that … it is then that the lack of color becomes a source sameness. The draped pieces come off a bit heavy handed if not just plain odd. Apparently the hats set a mood each season but can someone tell me that mood? Apparently my memo got lost in the mail telling that I MUST love and pander to this collection. I don’t love it … I don’t hate it...I am ambivalent…  I just want to know what all the fuss is about… simple!

PS ... maybe it’s the smorgasbord of references which include Ric Owens, the Japanese, Delpozo to name a few