Okay…. yes
it is eye appealing... great palette... loads of asymmetry , swathing, draping, “U” slits, folding, a variety of lengths,
harem hems, thong looking hose, caftans and
billowing dresses, second skin knits passing by and of course the “Balenciaga”
hat!
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Maybe a
touch of editing might have been beneficial since there were lots of
repeats or versions of … I can’t say I
didn’t like it … I can’t say I loved it …
so maybe it’s best to say Jacquemus is intriguing. I return each season and
each season I am never quite sure … this season the collection is either
growing on me or there is so much shit
out there that this suddenly looks good
or in fact there is something untapped here that hasn’t yet fully reached its
maturity.
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I actually
did like and came close to loving the more tailored pieces … crisp without
looking rigid and scary as it may be to some ... they looked wearable. Maybe it’s
the overkill of ruching and draping and gathering and all those dressmaker
peculiarities/idiosyncrasies that are throwing me or maybe it is simply that a
smaller collection would have been far more of an asset in getting his message
across.
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There was an
odd familiarity in much of it and again I’m not sure if it’s a case of been
there done that or if I simply recall past collections from this designer. There
is also this issue about not really being sure what season one is looking at
which can work to one’s advantage and then again it might also work against
you.
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At any rate
Jacquemus is really not a bad way to kick off Paris considering that Mariameatballdior will be on his heels
later today or tomorrow which we know beforehand is destined to be one more
disaster to add to her lengthening resume of fashion don’ts.
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One last
thing... the models actually looked happy wearing these clothes which is a HUGE
plus given the robotic somnambulistic death marches that usually take place on
the runway.
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