Wednesday, June 24, 2015

chatting with designer Rodrigo Otazu



Here’s the thing about “creatives.”  They are rarely satisfied, usually driven beyond the scope of most, always thinking, often moody, always on the move (as if propelled by an alternate power source) and always their own worst critics. They constantly challenge themselves!


Rodrigo Otazu is a designer who knows that there are no limits for him. He is a jewelry designer (both fashion and fine), a performer, an entrepreneur, a dreamer and of late a showman.  He spends his time in both North and South America as well as in the Far East and Europe.  He is a man who has decided that it is within his power and grasp to be a well-known and recognizable brand as well as a world class designer. He is doing what most wish they could and that is promoting himself and his brand on an international stage.


 I have been tracking this man for over a year now and I think it’s high time for more of you do the same. He is “findable” on Instagram as well as his website so pay attention!!!

PS. The answers are literally being spoken to you with little to no alteration ….




1-what are your current inspirations?
Freedom of expression … that is why the wings of Freedom are key for creativity … I think, when people in general, not only artists, are free and happy can’t get much  better in life, I am celebrating my freedom

2-you do both fashion and fine jewelry; what do you love about each classification?
I love both as a father love any of his “childs”, you can’t explain why you just love them unconditional



3-since we last spoke you have literally taken your “show” on the road... please fill us in on the details.
You know what they say if the mountain don’t come to you, I shall go to the mountain LOL …  The truth of the matter is that it’s important to bring the message of your art to different places, this can help you not just for people to know your work and look your art closely …. This helps you to get to know who are your “lovers”... who is the true people who cherish you work and help you to open new horizons.  As much as I love my home NYC, the remote control of the world is important to get out of your seat and do things. This is really inspiring to me. 
The show starts with wings, that is the representation of freedom for a woman in power who can show herself to the world and be fearless, this was the beginning of it all … then I design futuristic pieces made put of ZINK … to show that a simple yet amazing metal can do such amazing effects right in front your eyes. I work with over 300 people, I made simple dresses and very elaborated jewelry … 65 models on stage and 4 months working on each detail … I am ready to do it again !  ….. One thing that I will like to mention is that this show is the representation of my spirit and state of mind and is paying tribute to my pret porter collections that are coming from this source of inspiration  FOR THE FULL SHOW  …… www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxV_b4US-VA&feature=youtu.be

4-can you give us a brief run down about what you have been up to in the past year?
I have been going to school leaning new techniques and that was a lot of fun. I open a shop in Japan and this was a huge challenge. I have designed a couture collection of clothing which was something that I wanted to do for such a long time. Is fun to set yourself in different situations. I find it healthy and provocative, in a good way, to your soul so you can move on and progress personally and in an artistic way 

5--what are your plans for the future?
So many … My life is a constant evolution and is exciting to see what your brain can do… I am counting my blessings and thanking god for the energy that he is pouring into my life …. Just wait... is a lot more of me coming!




6-what is your favorite thing about doing what you do? And why?
My work is a tool for me to express my soul …. I feel so lucky that I don’t feel my work is my work, you know what I mean? 
I get up in the morning and I open my eyes…before I have even a coffee and open my computer to see what the worlds have for me
I am so happy and blessed that my life is not a routine, I am not made up for a 8 to 5 job … I have work all my life to be where I am today

7-if you were not creating jewelry, what would you be doing and why?
I will be designing buildings … HUGE buildings around the world. Did I say that???  this my next adventure …. Well …Stay tuned! LOL

Tuesday, June 23, 2015

Giorgio Armani Spring 2016.. men's



No matter what the so called pandering pundits may say about him, there is one thing you be sure of... he is consistent in his vision especially when it comes to menswear. Without question there will be reviews that say... boring... again? ... Really? … so not contemporary to the time but I say who cares. The clothes are pure unadulterated Armani … lush, soft, and only for those who want to be chic, understated and well-dressed with nary a trend in sight.



The ever so relaxed attitude of the collection in its looser fit, almost absence of color gives the Armani client 100s of pieces that will fit or refresh their ever burgeoning or more probably over grown wardrobe. One can sense the minimalism, restraint and subtlety present in this collection with a total focus on the clothes … unencumbered by tricky styling. These are clothes that last a lifetime, provided you don’t outgrow them and they will never look “out of style.”



When and if you dare to compare Armani to Gucci and the like you will find that one is for the kids or fashion victims who have no taste but oodles of money, but not a shred of self-confidence and the other for those of discerning taste who possess a confidence in knowing they wear the some of the best that men’s fashion has to offer. In a way, to me, the Armani customer is akin to the Hermes customer... he knows what he wears doesn’t scream or yell and will only be noticed by those who are savvy enough to recognize it. Call this if you will... silent signals!



The review is that the collection is all Armani all the way ... no gimmicks... no trying to be of the moment... no nothing except what he does best.. Softly tailored suitings and separates that seduce the wearer.

Sunday, June 21, 2015

Massimiliano Giornetti for Salvatore Ferragamo spring 2016



Milan is flexing its fashion muscle this season and one of the early leaders is Massimiliano Giornetti with the Salvatore Ferragamo men’s collection that he presented for spring 2016. It becomes amazingly refreshing to see clothes that actually can be worn, but then again isn’t that the purpose of fashion? My guess is that it just depends on who you ask.  



One of the undeniable facts about fashion is that it must appeal to the consumer since as has been stated many times before; fashion is ultimately about selling clothes. Giornetti gets it!! The clothes are understandable, modern, mostly ageless and represent the heritage and reputation of the esteemed brand. There are not many legendary brands that show themselves off with such great élan and dexterity. Giornetti shows a 21st interpretation of Ferragamo ... from the feet up! While on the subject of feet… oooh those trainers! While we are the subject of interpretation, let’s talk about how the designer has mined the archive for inspiration and used it with an amazingly deft hand …  the jumbled Ferragamo logo sweater as one example. Again, there are not many designers who know what to do with the archive they possess.


There is an unquestionable graphic quality to the collection as well as a plethora of options when it comes to jackets, suits and outerwear.  Giornetti has always emphasized these components and has always infused modernity to the classics, sometimes just withy the use of varied fabrications. Another appeal is the palette which is a welcome departure from the staid and drab colors we have seen from so many other designers and keep in mind that this Spring collection was not bursting with blinding whites! Imagine a Spring collection that didn’t need white for you to recognize that it was spring... a feat in itself!


If there is a criticism to be uttered, it would be that the styling and choice of models was skewed a bit young but for the seasoned eye, this is quite a minor offense. Massimiliano Giornetti remains firmly on my top 10 list as he always has his eye on the ball... so to speak!

Saturday, June 20, 2015

Stefano Pilati .. Ermenegildo Zegna spring 2016



Welcome to reality! Yes folks, imagine that after most or really about 90% of what was seen or shown in London, we have reached our destination … the real world!




Stefano Pilati has found a home at Ermenegildo Zegna and he hits the mark time after time at this fabled heritage brand. Here is a perfect example of how a relatively staid and somewhat boring brand has evolved into an international mega fashion brand while still retaining its genetics. Pilati offers up options! He gives us a range from the beautifully cut and crafted classics to fashion that reflects the times as well as the clothing budgets of those who can afford such luxury. There are no gimmicks here, no schtick, no schlock and most of all, no shock.




The mood ranges from decidedly relaxed and almost slouchy to a modern classic silhouette. It would not reflect well on me if it didn’t mention that Pilati owes a bit of debt to Armani and Gaultier but who cares? IMHO these clothes sing. These are ageless, timeless and classic with a twist; they are not boring but they are decidedly sophisticated, urbane and appealing to a wide spectrum of fashionable men.


Will the dyed in the wool Zegna customer wear the more fashion pieces? It is a distinct possibility that some of the more fashion styles will find their way into the closets of some professionals.  Even the most modern takes on a “leisure suit” are of great appeal. The athletic references are present but not taken to the extreme as we have seen of late. Again, no games here! Just straight up modern clothes for men.



One might think that “well there is no gender bending” which may cause one to think that these clothes are way off base if one follows the so called trends. Maybe not as much as one might think as there is the element of the glaring whites, some with a bit of sheerness and there are pieces that would easily appeal to the ladies as women’s choices in general leave out those who favor raffiné rather than trendy.

The bottom line is simply this... no, the collection will not set the fashion world ablaze but it shows us that there are designers and brands who understand that fashion is a business of selling clothes and that concept does not necessarily equate to boring.