Milan is flexing its fashion muscle this season and one of
the early leaders is Massimiliano Giornetti with the Salvatore Ferragamo men’s
collection that he presented for spring 2016. It becomes amazingly refreshing to
see clothes that actually can be worn, but then again isn’t that the purpose of
fashion? My guess is that it just depends on who you ask.
One of the undeniable facts about fashion is that it must
appeal to the consumer since as has been stated many times before; fashion is ultimately
about selling clothes. Giornetti gets it!! The clothes are understandable,
modern, mostly ageless and represent the heritage and reputation of the
esteemed brand. There are not many legendary brands that show themselves off
with such great élan and dexterity. Giornetti shows a 21st
interpretation of Ferragamo ... from the feet up! While on the subject of feet…
oooh those trainers! While we are the subject of interpretation, let’s talk
about how the designer has mined the archive for inspiration and used it with
an amazingly deft hand … the jumbled
Ferragamo logo sweater as one example. Again, there are not many designers who know
what to do with the archive they possess.
There is an unquestionable graphic quality to the collection
as well as a plethora of options when it comes to jackets, suits and outerwear.
Giornetti has always emphasized these components
and has always infused modernity to the classics, sometimes just withy the use
of varied fabrications. Another appeal is the palette which is a welcome
departure from the staid and drab colors we have seen from so many other designers
and keep in mind that this Spring collection was not bursting with blinding
whites! Imagine a Spring collection that didn’t need white for you to recognize
that it was spring... a feat in itself!
If there is a criticism to be uttered, it would be that the styling
and choice of models was skewed a bit young but for the seasoned eye, this is
quite a minor offense. Massimiliano Giornetti remains firmly on my top 10 list
as he always has his eye on the ball... so to speak!
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