The pigs just flew by AGAIN!!! Like it? No?? .. Get it? .. Well yes I do for the first time in a long
time. The press release might have alluded to the influence of Diana Vreeland,
but my eyes told me this is much more Frida Kahlo and south of the border than
ediatrix! From the “slab” of brow to the head scarfs to the embellishments, for
me this was a lot of Cinco de Mayo, minus the serape colors, and not so much
NYC and fashion capitals.
Jacobs utilized some of the most classic elements of
historical resort collections with some heavy usage of broderie anglaise and
various other laces mixed up with nautical stripes and lot of decoration. One
might say you were reminded of Gaultier, Prada, come Japanese and some
Lagerfeld. Sailor pants, mariner stripes, the high stance collars, the mirrors
and those mutant peter pan collars all mixed up into a bouillabaisse of a Marc
Jacobs collection. It can be said that for once in a long time, the clothes
actually look like people would wear them and not look like they were off to
some odd costume party.
The restrictive palette enhanced not only the embellishments
but heightened the seriousness of the clothes. These were not kittenish
costumey get ups that are a rule here but a more citified sophisticated side of
Jacobs. Personally, I found the prints very uninteresting to be honest and the
one shoulder feather pieces were so reminiscent of “someone” whose name escapes
me.
No matter, all my blah blah blah, I found the clothes intriguing
and rather than dismiss them as folly, they were worth a second look and
definitely not the usual fare that is offered by Marc Jacobs. There comes a
time when designers have an epiphany that their clothes must sell and not just
be admired or editorialized.
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