Wednesday, January 13, 2016

London men's collections fall 2016 .. an overview



Once upon a time London was referred to as fashion’s laboratory. It was a place rife with new designers fresh from Central St Martins and proffering their visions of fashion for all of us fashionphiles. In fact, London fashion weeks produced some memorable names that evolved into some of fashion's most respected designers. London was also the home of what many would call the dusty fusty fashion of the Brits as well as clothes fit for the THE queen… and that was no compliment.
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No so fast forward to the new millennium and the most recent collections. Here we are with clothes that actually look like design school projects and have been influenced by other fashion wannabe designers who get lots of hype and sell no clothes. Where are the avant gardists of the past? Where are the new designers who have an original vision?

 
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So in place of all that we get collections that offer puffers to pea coats, blazers to bombers, toggles to trenches, varsity jackets and still more warm clothes….. YAWN! Kanye AND Hood by Air don’t exactly speak to desirability for 95% of the male fashion victim population above 25 nor do cartoon clothes. Who amongst you wants to look like a walking cartoon caricature from Moschino or maybe someone masquerading as a baseball? Or maybe Sasquatch?

 
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Apparently, as I have said many times, anyone who can cobble together 25 outfits seems to be able to have a show these days and that is part of the problem. I am all for new designers but how about actually having something to say?how about actually taking into account that clothes are meant to sell?


Notable among what was first a clown car then a bus and now a train... are collections like Belstaff which is obviously a collection for men, Kilgour which while heavily referenced is chic as hell, McQueen where Sarah still has something to say about how her customer should look and a very commercial Coach and then the dusty fusty tailored collections which are certainly not bad just same old same old.
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