Once upon a time London was referred to as fashion’s
laboratory. It was a place rife with new designers fresh from Central St Martins and proffering their visions of fashion for all of us fashionphiles. In
fact, London fashion weeks produced some memorable names that evolved into some
of fashion's most respected designers. London was also the home of what many would
call the dusty fusty fashion of the Brits as well as clothes fit for the THE queen… and
that was no compliment.
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No so fast forward to the new millennium and the most recent
collections. Here we are with clothes that actually look like design school projects
and have been influenced by other fashion wannabe designers who get lots of
hype and sell no clothes. Where are the avant gardists of the past? Where are
the new designers who have an original vision?
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So in place of all that we get collections that offer
puffers to pea coats, blazers to bombers, toggles to trenches, varsity jackets and still
more warm clothes….. YAWN! Kanye AND Hood by Air don’t exactly speak to desirability
for 95% of the male fashion victim population above 25 nor do cartoon clothes. Who amongst you
wants to look like a walking cartoon caricature from Moschino or maybe someone masquerading
as a baseball? Or maybe Sasquatch?
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Apparently, as I have said many times, anyone who can cobble
together 25 outfits seems to be able to have a show these days and that is part
of the problem. I am all for new designers but how about actually having something
to say?how about actually taking into account that clothes are meant to sell?
Notable among what was first a clown car then a bus
and now a train... are collections like Belstaff which is obviously a
collection for men, Kilgour which while heavily referenced is chic as hell, McQueen where Sarah
still has something to say about how her customer should look and a very
commercial Coach and then the dusty fusty tailored collections which are certainly
not bad just same old same old.
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