I never quite understand how reviewers fixate on a venue and
production rather than speak to the reason they attend these shows and that is
to see CLOTHES and not to critique front rows, stage productions or venue. Yes
kids, critics or reviewers or whatever they are, seem to fixate on other aspects
of a show rather than on the reason they have been sent and given a seat.
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Van Noten is a fabric man. He is the big picture kind of guy
who operates independently of anyone else and without any “oligarchic” (yes
it’s a word) influences. What Van Noten evokes in a show like this is luxe. It
is not a term usually used to describe a men’s collection and yet that’s what I
see. I might even go so far as to say there is something very Klimt-like
happening here; maybe it’s the color combinations, maybe it is the gold and all
the bullion patches and yes maybe it’s his use of fur!
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Of course, one would have to be blind to not see all the
military references but yet Van Noten never overplays his hand. I can’t pretend
to say I am a fan or that I really understand the MO but I can understand and
admire the allure of a collection like this even if it’s not personally to my
liking.
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Back to Van Noten being a fabric guy; well just look at the
prints, whether they are printed or woven, the end result sets him apart from
the flock and that’s a good thing. Not being a trend watcher myself, there is a
certain joy that comes from watching a designer’s output that actually shows
off his design prowess and who is
content in his own skin.
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