Versace:
Donatellamommamia is at it again! Apparently she just can’t help herself when
it comes to going over the top and beating a theme to death. If one silver
space suit or one white jacket or coat was good then 10 is better, if one
lavender/orchid colored piece is good then 5 is better and then of course the
gimmicks. Gianni was all about design, tailoring, fabric and sex while Donatellamommamia
wants attention and that would be any kind of attention. Rather than expanding
the freakishness of the collection why can't she expand on those classic Versace
Hermes like prints that catapulted him into the spotlight? Doncha think there are
enough motorcycle jackets out there, or track pants, or LED lit up clothes? Don’t
you think it would have been quite something if she really expanded the
tailored segment of the show and offered a variety of silhouettes? Apparently
one more time, there must be a new design team that favors track pants, tights
and NASA! You really have to wonder if any of them know there was a Gianni
Versace! BTW, the casting of models is far better than the past but the styling...
well not so much.PS. And those pussycat sweaters... REALLY?
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Jil Sander: well,
the DNA of the brand is present and accounted for with this collection but
there is such a thing as pushing the envelope a bit too far like quilted flight
suits, or using the signature “gay” nylon bomber of the 70s in its original
color and then there were those ghastly padded nylon pants which made me sweat
just thinking of wearing them and oh yeah a tad too much leather. Rodolfo Paglialunga
is surely traveling down the right path including the improvement of his casting...
not much but better but less nubile. The collection was minimal, precise,
contained that hard edge all within a limited in palette. My opinion here is
that he testing the waters and massaging the DNA which will hopefully really
restore the luster. PS that military thing and the harnesses... it’s enough already
and you might want to rethink the jumpsuit thing!
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Ralph Lauren (Purple Label): here’s the thing... Ralph is Ralph and even
this segment of the collection empire will never set the world afire but there
comes a time when you might think to yourself oh again and still and really! Is
it beautiful... yes! Is it exquisitely made... yes! There are no surprises here,
it is more Ralph tweaked ever so slightly for the season. Yes, there is this
sports theme undertone as well the apparent cowboy predilection but basically
it is just Ralph doing Ralph… again! And yet there is no doubt in my mind that
this will sell far better and wider than most of the collections shown during this
round of shows.
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