Philipp Plein took a 180 this season as it is possible he
had exhausted the world’s stud supply with his previous collections or possibly he has decided that he needs to go a more commercial route. For the
most part, gone are the studs and gone are the hard core
biker chick/rocker girl looks that previously flooded his collections and even the skull has all
but disappeared . Don’t get me wrong, he hasn’t abandoned his DNA as much as he has just
massaged it and interpreted that DNA in a different way; less overt sexy and a
lot less costumey or maybe hookerish. Some of the shapes will be familiar, some much more grown up
and wearable and some new. There is a definite fascination with lace, with
butterflies and with his signature prints. What will be most interesting is if
this is a precursor to what is to come or if this is just a one shot wonder.
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Jason Wu has decided that BOSS is the 21st
century’s answer to the original Jil Sander. It is spare, minimal, hard edged,
rather commercial and with a limited color palette. There is this aura of
architectural and somewhat of a sterile feeling that comes with such minimalism. Maybe
he is right to take this tack as the fashion world is starting to look like the
linen department with tonnage of white sheets turned into wearing apparel and
when so many collections look they have been designed by one communal design
team. One can say it is wearable but certainly not exciting but just maybe he
has taken to ascribe to the original genesis of early fall and that was to sell
clothes with no fanfare and no design fireworks. Pre-fall was the appetizer to
the regular Fall seaon which is the course dinner.
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