Brioni is one of
those heritage brands that is in the process of reimagining itself especially
after it has been sold to Kering. The brand has long been a staple of established
and conservative businessmen from all over the world but now Brioni wants a
younger customer albeit a very rich younger customer. The task has been
entrusted to Brendan Mullane.
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That being said, the fit is younger, a bit more abbreviated
and slicker and leaner, there are more patterns, plaids to be exact, and of
course there are sportier pieces rather than just boiler plate business suits. Without
a doubt the quality remains impeccable as well as fabrications and of course their
manufacture. This is a prime example of a somewhat misguided journey to the
brand’s reimagination. There was no need to use that oversized backpack so often....
and no back packs do not make clothes look young when worn over a suit, then
there was this “nanook” harness/hood which was just plain silly and lastly
there were the hats that just were placed atop the head!
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In essence all the parts were there but what might have been
did not happen and that is this collection should have been wildly chic and
masculine with a heavy dose of swagger. Well, no swagger here and the
“superfly” minks didn’t help much especially the herringbone number. Given the hugely grey/black palette, don’t
you think a chinchilla “puffer” might have been fabulous? While the loose
pocketed smock top and wool pull overs are most definitely fashion items, there
was something missing. The bottom line is that the collection looked uptight
and not the relaxed younger mood that was hoped for and honestly this wasn’t a
runway worthy designed collection.
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Without question Brioni did what it does best and that is
tailored conservative menswear. Doesn’t it strike you odd that there were no
evening/tuxedo/dinner jacket exits? One really would like to know the answer to
that question. No doubt their business will not suffer but it surely might have
grown if they pushed a little harder and thought it out a little better.
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