Balmain spring 2020

Without a doubt Rousteing has taken a sharp turn and made a radical departure from his usual fare. To me, the collection has this decidedly Courreges/Cardin-esque tilt mixed with the sixties modern, tinge of 80s and definitely nods to the au courant.

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The colored denims are really a brilliant move but I’m so not sure about those oversized shoulders and oversized jackets. Pleating and draping come into play and again I’m just not so sure in the right way. I have always said that he has untold talents but I have always questioned who is whispering in his ear. There are lots of clothes. Lots of ideas, lots of color and lots of confusion as to what do you do with it all.

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Gone is the rigid tailoring and oversized beaded sweaters as well as the usually spectacular second skin beaded dresses meant for the very few. What we are seeing is either a revolution or an evolution of the brand. My questions or conundrum will not be answered until next season when we see the direction he pursues

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The boldness of the collection is the end result of its graphic and geometric qualities, its retro mood as well as its color spectrum and boldness of shape. The look at me factor has dramatically shifted as to the reason why you look. 

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To me this was too much too soon... doing a 180 at this stage in the brand’s life is not a move that I would have taken… this is not easing into a new mood silhouette and DNA this is out with the old and in with the new in one fell swoop. There is a lot of gimmickry afoot and that’s not a good thing.

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Only time will tell if Rousteing’s current state of mind in questioning his heritage has affected his design process.

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PS ...  not a wise move to use the Margiela one lagged pant and the Vetements moment has certainly passed!