Tuesday, February 25, 2020

Saint Laurent fall 2020


Well, apparently, someone actually went to the archive and almost used it to the point of being faithful but alas, designers being who and what they are when it comes to an archive, they always find a way to fuck it up.
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No question, the collection is about blazers, jackets, coats, chubbies, a few great skirts and even a few dresses and lest I forget the ever YSL standard stock tie neck blouse. With all this in its favor including a beautiful palette, Vaccarello had to flash it up by adding second skin scuba patent leggings and compounding that by using the same patent for dresses and skirts. In other words what might have been a landmark collection of chic turned into a sort of a mess or even a parody with that choice of fabric and its being used in almost every exit. As a whole, the collection comes off a bit repetitive especially since he omitted evening to a great degree and over focused on jackets.
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On the upside, I do have a feeling that in the showroom there will be skirts to match the jackets and possibly even some of the dresses in more wearable fabrics which won't require being powdered to get into them. As far as the lacy lingerie and bra top underpinnings… why oh why did he have to take them to the extreme and make them look like Fredericks of Hollywood?
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Was it the most exciting collection ... well no, but it probably will be one of the most salable and well received in my opinion. Vaccarello proves that he actually does understand the archive and might possibly be able to use it in more depth and variety for future collections.
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