Well,
apparently, someone actually went to the archive and almost used it to the point
of being faithful but alas, designers being who and what they are when it comes
to an archive, they always find a way to fuck it up.
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No question,
the collection is about blazers, jackets, coats, chubbies, a few great skirts
and even a few dresses and lest I forget the ever YSL standard stock tie neck
blouse. With all this in its favor including a beautiful palette, Vaccarello
had to flash it up by adding second skin scuba patent leggings and compounding
that by using the same patent for dresses and skirts. In other words what might
have been a landmark collection of chic turned into a sort of a mess or even a parody
with that choice of fabric and its being used in almost every exit. As a whole,
the collection comes off a bit repetitive especially since he omitted evening
to a great degree and over focused on jackets.
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On
the upside, I do have a feeling that in the showroom there will be skirts to match
the jackets and possibly even some of the dresses in more wearable fabrics which won't require being powdered to get into them. As far as the lacy lingerie and
bra top underpinnings… why oh why did he have to take them to the extreme and
make them look like Fredericks of Hollywood?
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Was it the
most exciting collection ... well no, but it probably will be one of the most
salable and well received in my opinion. Vaccarello proves that he actually
does understand the archive and might possibly be able to use it in more depth
and variety for future collections.
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