YAWN
YAWN
YAWN
STILL YAWNING
ASLEEP
Apparently he didn’t get the message that every other designer got when they designed their spring collections hence 15 minutes of my life I will never get back!
That is all!
Thursday, September 30, 2021
Raf Simons spring 2022
Balmain spring 2022
Here’s my conundrum with Olivier Rousteing and that is from day one I could see that this young man had talent and a skillset that was hard to match. Did I think he was a match for the brand? .... well, no but in his ten-year stint he has certainly redefined the brand with his own kind sex appeal, embellishments, tailoring and audience.
While this collection was celebratory, I found that the last 15 pieces spoke more to the designer’s prowess than the previous 100 odd exits. Dust mop length pants and napkin length sleeves are a thing of the past and he is fooling himself to think that life will return to how it once was.
Ignoring the past 12-18 months is a huge error in judgement as it has taken its toll on every business and everyone who has lived through it. No, I am not saying the world has become one big pair of sweat pants but it surely isn’t about barely there clothes which scream overt sexiness or complicated design. Case in point is that an editor’s pencil was needed here and given that he showed both men’s and women’s together and that they overlapped a bit too much, the collection became oh okay that again even if it wasn’t exactly the same!
For some reason, I sense that there is something very childlike about him and that his thought process is very elemental in many ways, yet his skillset is far above many of his colleagues. Let’s just say it is a bit sad to live in a bubble when your talents can be steered to staggering heights. Not everyone wants to be mummified or nearly naked at staggering price points.
Tuesday, September 28, 2021
Saint Laurent spring 2022
Here’s the hitch with this collection, unless one is really familiar with the brand... when Yves was alive, you miss the nods he gives to the designer BUT Mr. Vaccarello certainly went overboard in too many ways!
The first thing I noticed is that the heels are literally skyscraper heels with platforms to the point that the models were most either hunched forward or tilted back or wobbling which serves no purpose and certainly doesn’t enhance the clothes. Then we move onto the flood of skin tight catsuit and pants which doesn’t mean they are sexy; it just means they are second skin. Next up there were those jumpsuits/catsuits where Vaccarello used a bodice... (to the uninformed that’s the top half of a gown) and plopped it on as the top half of a catsuit and no it doesn’t work like that, this is not paper dolls.
There were wonderfully tailored jackets that may have had the original YSL flourishes that came in the way of buttons or sleeves or embellishments and then there were a few skirts that might have been exactly as St Laurent did them except Vaccarello didn’t carry through and used transparency on top of those ball skirts. when one has an archive such as this, it is imperative that it is used properly and sadly the end results here were not flattering.... droopy drapey tummies on skintight catsuits and wonderfully draped necklines that are not a match to catsuit bottoms. It’s the square peg in the round hole syndrome!
Yes, the models were impeccably groomed and the accessories tasteful and possibly even in the original St Laurent vein but as a whole it didn’t make much of a statement except that yes, we believe in jackets and catsuits and shoes you can’t walk in and that is sad!
Dior spring 2022
Never say never!! I didn’t hate it BUT I didn’t love it! The problem being is that I don’t understand where it came from in terms of what does it have to do with the genes of the brand? Aside from the fact that there is no reason to show an outfit in 5 color ways and how come the collection did a 180 and looks very 60s in colors and shapes? Unquestionably, this collection skews much younger than all her socio-political feminist statements of the past.
The colors were an amazingly refreshing change for her and by God, the models actually wore shoes, not boots or oxfords, even if many of shoes looked suspiciously like those from Valentino. Then let’s talk lengths which were certainly not jolie madame and more Carnaby Street and Biba as were many shapes. There were even a few pieces I can honestly say I liked but then again all of it took on a generic tone which seemed to alter the appeal tremendously.
Do we suppose she was told to lighten up on the political feminist manifestos of the past as I can’t imagine this collection was all her idea? I’d like to give her some credit but I really can’t since so much, if not all, of this collection could have been designed by anyone. It was nice to see the models well-groomed and again wearing real shoes and not Doc Martens but once you got past the suits, which there were far too many of, I kept waiting for Twiggy or Jean Shrimpton to appear; while on the subject of jeans, could she have found a stiffer denim?
I might also add that the clothes should been fitted far more precisely and that goes for the singer who gave lots of side boob which reminds me that suddenly the meatball discovered nude souffle which had never appeared before. In the end I can only really say I don’t get it and probably never will no matter what this woman conjures in her head and how she interprets her inspirations.
PS ... fuchsia
shearling... REALLY?
Sunday, September 26, 2021
Giorgio Armani spring 2022
Imagine that!!!! We finally get to see a collection that was actually designed and doesn’t look like every other collection or a collection that is so over worked that it’s an abysmal failure.
This was a collection built upon the entire Armani vocabulary from his lexicon of Armani pants to every kind of tailoring he has ever done. For the most part the collection is easy, soft, moments of rigidity, ethereal, lighter than air and then of course it just wouldn’t be Armani if there was no navy blue for spring!
The palette is what you might call diluted/muted sherbet colors or the palest of pastels done up in everything from tulle to knits to day wear. It is difficult for me to be able to say I wished to see more even though there were certainly plenty of exits, but I did want more! It’s just so soothing and reassuring to know that there is still a collection that doesn’t scream look at me, look at me and instead offers up clothing that will make the Armani client salivate.
If I wanted to find fault it would be with some of the pant shapes and the amount of tulle but they are inconsequential faults when you look at this as a total collection ... AND, do take note that models SMILED and causally strolled the runway as if they were actually enjoying their moment instead of looking like some robot that was wound up to walk a straight line.
Friday, September 24, 2021
VERSACE SPRING 2022
Immediately after Gianni’s demise Donatellamamamia said I AM NOT A DESIGNER! By golly, she certainly knew her fate because she shames her late brother by attaching his name and legacy to collections like this one and so many before.
So, what do we have here: a few nice black dresses with scarf insets and embellishments, a few nicely tailored suits, a lot of hookerish looking pieces that serve no purpose in anyone’s life, tons of chainmail, lots of ugly shoes and hoo ha we have Dua Lupa! Maybe she comes to sell the clothes in all the boutiques!
Kindly note I refrain from mentioning the menswear having been a HUGE Versace customer personally and there isn’t one thing that even offers a glimmer of desire in this category.
Yes, we had lots of color, some pieces that might have been jackets and the shortest dresses around that guarantee the wearer to get lucky quick. There is a vast difference between a call girl and a nickel a blow job hooker under the highway. There is no remnant of the slick sexy razor-sharp Versace that existed during his reign; it’s been tossed aside or possibly totally forgotten.
Oh and that
tee short which showed up far too many times should have read Versace
Nightmares!
Prada spring 2022
Well... apparently girls have tails or will ... I mean the label whores and the trendoids will if you believe that it’s even close to reality. Spring opens with beat up motorcycle jackets and these so-called skirts that look like a n 18-inch-wide length of fabric caught in the back by a safety pin, the rest trailing behind you.
There is so much
to for me to shake my head about from bulky turtle neck sweaters to stiff
fabric used to make the dresses even more unappealing than they are and then the
open backs which appear to be when you can’t find a way to close the back zipper
so you just leave hang it open. Lest I forget one of my favorites is the
sweater with the cups (falsies) sewn into them so each boob has a home... what could
be more appealing.
SEE THE LINK BELOW
The cockroach
pointy kitten heels in colorful patents, the little lady bags and tails ...yes
tails!!
How can anyone
find clothes like these appealing other than for their label ... some of the
pieces look stiff enough to stand by themselves BUT kudos as they didn’t get
the memo about bra tops instead, they went bare chested under jackets and yes there
were pretty colors!
As a
colleague pointed out and reminded me that look how long they have been around and
that they have survived in these past 4 decades of fashion and remain sweethearts
of the fashion media whoever they are!
Wednesday, September 22, 2021
Fendi spring 2022
When Karl was designing Fendi, I always thought of it as Karl’s toy and Karl’s way of sort of doing the Fendi’s a favor by coupling his talents and fantasies with their expertise. Hence, I rarely took it seriously and really always considered the ready to wear as filler for their stores.
Kim Jones, apparently, has been given free hand to create a look for the brand and maybe couture wasn’t the best way to start but what it did was tease you about what was to come. He is trying to create a repeat customer who will come to Fendi for what they offer besides leathers and furs. Unfortunately, it’s a bit on molto signora side
This collection definitely showed off what the Fendis are known for and now to coordinate with a ready to wear collection. IMHO, a more succinct collection might have helped but what I did especially like is that he told color stories within the collection...keep in mind I’m not speaking of the pieces but of concept of the color stories.
As a collection it certainly won’t set the world of fashion on its ear since there is really nothing very new here ... a few pieces here and there are noteworthy and even they are not exactly earth shattering. I don’t quite understand shearling for spring or fur for that matter but then again Karl created that formula and so it continues. This go round, Jones at least made use of handbags, shoes, boot and an exceeding weak logo belt.
I’m not so sure
the world is ready for uptight tailoring, all that satin creating a very sort
of tight ass look! Time will tell
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)