There is something to be said when a designer does not feel
compelled to show a collection of some 30 or 40 pieces. The question now arises
“WHY?” If you ask me, the reason is that Alexandre Vauthier wants to make a
point and he doesn’t need a lot of extraneous looks to me bring home the point.
Monsieur Vauthier, if he were a fashion critic, would be considered
a man of few words. If he was an author he would not be writing War and Peace.
My point is that very designers have the confidence or the ability to say what
they need to say without producing collection of which a good part of it is nothing
more than window dressing. The Bible says “Let thy
speech be short, comprehending much in few words” and so it is chez Vauthier. In
addition to the facts that there is no venue to discuss, no music to refer to
and no arcane hallucinatory inspirations to regurgitate, the reviewer is forced
to focus on the designer and his message, meaning CLOTHES!!! . It is with
pleasure than I can and will do so!
This designer is not looking to
reinvent the world order of fashion nor is he looking to dress every woman who inhabits
this world but instead he wants a very specific lady who is self-assured, with
a good to great body that she is not shy about and most definitely she wants to
be perceived as hot! And that is meant in the most flattering of ways.
My take is that he all about
tough chic, timeless clothes and if you will … modern classics. He wants his
women to be a little bit rock n roll but understand the glories of exquisite workmanship,
razor sharp tailoring, a bit of sex but never over the top. He is of a rare
breed of young designers who dips into the pools of both ready and haute
couture. Here, the collection echoes some of the incredible workmanship of
couture but adds his wardrobe basics. Do not think there is anything basic about
his wardrobe building blocks because there is nothing simple or pedestrian
about them. For me I see a hint of vintage YSL who knew all about synthesizing
moods through his clothes. The Vauthier DNA is all here; all you have to do is
look!
As an extra added attraction
this season, Alexandre Vauthier, the brand, has introduced a capsule of
collection of handbags that speaks to the same mentality as the ready to wear. Say
it boldly, say it briefly and drive that point home! Yes, with just a few shapes
and offered in just a few materials, you
see the essence of the brand and of the designer, I am lucky enough to have
been afforded the photos of these pieces for this review and well … you are
lucky enough to share them as well.
In the end the point is this “parlez
vous Vauthier?” or more simply stated do you want to wear these clothes and
tell the world that you speak the language of Vauthier?
Model: Hana Jirikova …. Photos by
Mathieu Cesar
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