There is something to be said when a designer does not feel compelled to show a collection of some 30 or 40 pieces. The question now arises “WHY?” If you ask me, the reason is that Alexandre Vauthier wants to make a point and he doesn’t need a lot of extraneous looks to me bring home the point.
Monsieur Vauthier, if he were a fashion critic, would be considered a man of few words. If he was an author he would not be writing War and Peace. My point is that very designers have the confidence or the ability to say what they need to say without producing collection of which a good part of it is nothing more than window dressing. The Bible says “Let thy speech be short, comprehending much in few words” and so it is chez Vauthier. In addition to the facts that there is no venue to discuss, no music to refer to and no arcane hallucinatory inspirations to regurgitate, the reviewer is forced to focus on the designer and his message, meaning CLOTHES!!! . It is with pleasure than I can and will do so!
This designer is not looking to reinvent the world order of fashion nor is he looking to dress every woman who inhabits this world but instead he wants a very specific lady who is self-assured, with a good to great body that she is not shy about and most definitely she wants to be perceived as hot! And that is meant in the most flattering of ways.
My take is that he all about tough chic, timeless clothes and if you will … modern classics. He wants his women to be a little bit rock n roll but understand the glories of exquisite workmanship, razor sharp tailoring, a bit of sex but never over the top. He is of a rare breed of young designers who dips into the pools of both ready and haute couture. Here, the collection echoes some of the incredible workmanship of couture but adds his wardrobe basics. Do not think there is anything basic about his wardrobe building blocks because there is nothing simple or pedestrian about them. For me I see a hint of vintage YSL who knew all about synthesizing moods through his clothes. The Vauthier DNA is all here; all you have to do is look!
As an extra added attraction this season, Alexandre Vauthier, the brand, has introduced a capsule of collection of handbags that speaks to the same mentality as the ready to wear. Say it boldly, say it briefly and drive that point home! Yes, with just a few shapes and offered in just a few materials, you see the essence of the brand and of the designer, I am lucky enough to have been afforded the photos of these pieces for this review and well … you are lucky enough to share them as well.
In the end the point is this “parlez vous Vauthier?” or more simply stated do you want to wear these clothes and tell the world that you speak the language of Vauthier?
Model: Hana Jirikova …. Photos by Mathieu Cesar
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