The question here is simply can you mentally subtract the
theatrics and focus on just the clothes? Without a doubt the hyper visual
accessories can detract from the main even which is clothes but the disciplined
eye can easily see that Pugh is a designer to be reckoned with and not a fly by
night designer sewing in his basement.
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To me, Pugh is a top shelf shelf designer who is excessively
well trained in the art and craft of fashion as well in the design and
merchantability of fashion. Once the stage effects and antics are stripped
away, you are left with clothes of extreme beauty on many levels. Without reservation
these clothes are not for everyone and will appeal to a very few but the young
man is constantly evolving and not recreating himself season after season. There’s that catch phrase again “designers who
design.”
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The optical, graphic and geometric pieces, the softest of
chiffon, the rigidity of the collaged metallic, they all play off each other
and against each other to create an excitement that is genuine rather than
forced. Even the silhouettes run the gamut from the hardest of tailoring to the
softest of flou. Personally a couple of big favorites were the white hard edged
pantsuit with purple scarf, the graphic djellabas and caftans and even a couple
of fabulous skirts.
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Pugh is a man of surprises for sure and he has come a long
way from clothes that could only be seen as costumes rather than wearable
clothes. These are clothes for the most discerning if not for those who just
curate their wardrobes in the same way that an art collector curates their art collection.
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