Prabal Gurung Spring 2014 NYFW

Starting with Spring 2014, there will be a series of mini reviews which basically will say the most but in the least amount of words as well as half the amount of slides.  The terse appraisals will not take the place of my more formal and thorough reviews; they will enable to me to publish more for your perusal.  Somehow my feeling is that the reader will not need to know any more than what I have offered.

 

For me, this is just a case of the slippery slide.  This is a collection that has devolved since its inception as far as I am concerned.  What was once beautifully impeccably made dresses has turned out to be a laughable display of distractions, high jinx, and a feeling that this designer is lost.

 

With  extreme references to Courreges, Mr. Gurung has turned out a collection that can only be described by asking what exactly is he thinking other than editorial … if that!  One hasn’t a clue where to focus as there isn’t an area on the model that allows you to focus on it as EVERY area is demanding equal time.  If one was pressed into finding the one immediate focal point, well it wasn’t the clothes, that’s for sure!

 

It is really such a shame that these young designers either suffer from hubris, poor direction or possibly believing their own press.  Mr. Gurung has the chops to turn out beautiful clothes but apparently he has opted for media attention rather than for consumer attention.

Alexander Wang Spring 2014 NYFW

Starting with Spring 2014, there will be a series of mini reviews which basically will say the most but in the least amount of words as well as half the amount of slides.  The terse appraisals will not take the place of my more formal and thorough reviews; they will enable to me to publish more for your perusal.  Somehow my feeling is that the reader will not need to know any more than what I have offered.

 

These clothes are for wanna be models and young girls and surely not for grown women.  The Wang hype is with Balenciaga and as for the eponymous brand, well, who cares? least of all me!

The interesting things will be how these clothes will no doubt grace the editorial pages of every glossy come Spring.  Sadly, they are far more contemporary or junior than they are anything else.

For me, this is just another case of “The Emperor’s New Clothes” or Much Ado About Nothing.”

Joseph Altuzarra Spring 2014

Starting with Spring 2014, there will be a series of mini reviews which basically will say the most but in the least amount of words as well as half the amount of slides.  The terse appraisals will not take the place of my more formal and thorough reviews; they will enable to me to publish more for your perusal.  Somehow my feeling is that the reader will not need to know any more than what I have offered.

For me, this is just another case of “The Emperor’s New Clothes” or Much Ado About Nothing.” I hope Kering is very happy with their purchase as he is one more who will now become the board of directors bitch and will be answering to a raft of CPA’s rather than his clients.

 

First instinct is that the clothes reminded of Orthodox Jews and with their tzizit and tallit (see slide show). The collection is gimmicky and rabbinical in the extreme and once that is stripped away there isn’t much.  It is rather yawn worthy at that point.  What does stand out is that the young man knows how to tailor a jacket.  I think there is great talent there but it just hasn’t been channeled in one specific direction.  Each season there are different bells and whistles and each season there is some new convoluted message.

 

Is it too much to ask for a collection that bears a distinction in belonging to a specific designer and not a collection that can be attributed to anyone … in essence, where is the DNA of this brand and soon it will be just that.. a brand

 

NYFW Spring 2014... Jason Wu

And so it has begun ... another round of endless shows that spans 2 continents and 4 cities.  So here we go with #1 and the lucky one is …..

One of the things that always attracts me to Jason Wu is the knowing that the clothes will be near perfectly rendered and clothes that befit a runway presentation and this season was no different. As always the clothes are beautifully made and actually look like they have been fitted to a model!!

 

The color palette, as Spring usually dictates, is pale without being washed out and with the exception of a few shots of royal blue and black, remained on the pale side. One of the design flourishes that I did take umbrage with is that dropped funnel neck.  The neckline never looks right and is equally hard to pull off in real life. Mr. Wu has played his sexy card much more in recent time but the sheer thing is really getting a bit tired and for designer such as himself, a bit de trop. His sportier pieces actually look as if people will wear them as opposed to so much of what will be seen on the runways in coming days and weeks ... albeit a few more daringly overt styles.

 

In general, I might say there are allusions to YSL, to Gaultier and even to Kors, the last being sort of unfortunate for Mr. Wu.  Being very partial to his tailoring, he did not disappoint even though the silhouette is a bit more relaxed and the shoulder line is not as pronounced... they always look crisp! The tuxedo jumpsuit was pretty hot as was the sleeveless suit which is sort of an iffy statement but looked pretty damned good on the runway.  Keep in mind that Mr. Wu, much like his references, is not a trend designer which is much to his credit.

Without question the white bias slip dress gown is a showstopper even if it does require the perfect body. One might have wished for more in that vein rather than all the sheer all over embroidered pieces. The overall collection was slick but not as slick as he has produced in the past.

 

All in all, this was a definite like and there were some true standout highlights, but this was no rip roaring screamingly fabulous collection. Spring is rarely the season to get crazy with fabulous as the selling season, especially nowadays, is over way before you ever get to wear it. 

Wu is an evolutionary designer who continues to exhibit, I think, what will be! He is rarely neither boring nor controversial but he is always speaking to his customers via his collections. He does do his best to offer a well round categorized collection which is so rare these days.

A "Chat" with CHRISTIAN LACROIX

I am indescribably honored and humbled to have had the one and only Christian Lacroix answer a few questions for me about … well… so many things; some of it pertains to fashion.  He is one of the most emblematic designers of the last 2 decades of the 20^th century and he was the last of a breed to inhabit the world of Haute Couture. Here is a man who has made an indelible mark within the milieu of fashion.

His latest collaboration was with the house of Schiaparelli and he continues to design for the world of the stage whether it is ballet or opera or anything in between.  The man evokes exuberance through his love of color, his humor and his native Arles.  His “like” shall not walk amongst us during this life time and so take a few minutes and learn something about the man known as CHRISTIAN LACROIX!

I need to personally say MERCI BEAUCOUP...  MILLE FOIS... I cannot express my gratitude and respect for this man for giving of his time on this project...let alone for enriching every one of us who has a love of fashion.  Here in his own words ….

1-What is the most treasured possession in your wardrobe?
NONE ??? OR MY FATHER FORTIES WAR BLACK MARKET FABRICS DANDY LOOKS I USED TO WEAR MYSELF ON THE MID SIXTIES ??? OR HUMBLE OLD VINTAGE HOLYDAYS & HOME THINGS CAREFULLY PATCHED, MENDED, OLD FASHIONNED DARNED

2-What is your most sterling trait and what trait do you treasure most in your friendships?
I DO IGNORE ANY STERLING TRAIT OF MINE
WITH FRIENDS I DO TREASURE MUTUAL UNDERSTANDING, SAME SENSE OF HUMOR
MEANS I HAVE NOT MANY, BUT A HANDFUL IS ENOUGH 

3-What is your bliss?
BEING OFF-DUTY IN A BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPE

4-What is your guilty secret?
SO MANY ... !!! AND A SECRET IS A SECRET ...

5-Where is your ideal home?
HIGH VIEW ON SEA AND ISLANDS FROM A CONTEMPORARY HOUSE, HILLS AND MOUTAINS SOMEWHERE IN MEDITERRANEAN AREAS FROM A RUSTIC SIMPLE ROMAN ABBEY OR PALAZZO OR ON NY OR PARIS ROOFS FROM A HIGH PENTHOUSE WITH ROOF GARDEN

6-If you could not be a designer/retailer/etc:, what would you be
A MONK, A HERMIT ARTIST  SKETCHING, READING, CREATING COLLAGES, PAINTINGS, CERAMICS

7-What is on your bedside table right now?
WOODEN CHURCH CHANDELIER, BOOKS, DYPTIQUE VETIVER FRAGANCE, SUN GLASSES, SILVER SKULL, AND AN ABSTRACT IRON SCULPTURE

8-What do you wear to bed?
CHARVET OLD STYLE PYJAMAS WHEN ON TRIP, AND HOME: VINTAGE DJELLABAHS IN SUMMER, OLD JOGGINGS IN WINTER, OR NOTHING

9-What if any, book are you reading now or last read?
MY FRIEND PATRICK MAURIÉS "FRAGMENT D'UNE FORÊT", JUST FINISHED CLAUDE ARNAUD "PROUST CONTRE COCTEAU" ANS STILL READING MY IDOL PHILIPPE JULLIAN (1919-1977) DIARY 1940/1950

10-What’s your advice to the “newcomer?”
"CE QUE LE PUBLIC TE REPROCHE CULTIVE-LE, C'EST TOI" (COCTEAU)
"IL Y A PLUS DE LARMES VERSÉES SUR LES PRIÈRES EXAUCÉES QUE SUR CELLES QUI NE LE SONT PAS" (TRUMAN CAPOTE ? OR SAINTE THÉRÈSE D'AVILA ???
AND, FROM ME (!) "BEWARE OF YOUR DEEPEST SOUL & GUTS WISHES, BECAUSE THEY'LL HAPPEN. AND OF COURSE "WORK, WORK, WORK, DON'T WASTE ANY SECOND OR DROP, LIFE IS SHORT AND CHANCE IS ONLY ONCE"

11-Who or what is your inspiration/style icon?
ALL THESE SOCIALITES, MODELS AND ICONS FROM 40/50/60/70’s VOGUE OR BAZAAR. CHIC STOPPED WITH THE 80’s ...

12-What is the best advice you ever received?
"PUT SOME ICE IN YOUR STOMACH" AND "FASHION IS JUST AN ASS/SEX AFFAIR" BOTH FROM THE LATE HEBE DORSEY (A DRAGON AND GODDESS JOURNALIST IN THE HERALD TRIBUNE FROM 60/80, THE  SUZY MENKES OF THE TIMES),

13-In 3 words or less, describe the current state of fashion.
SCHIZOPHRENC : ONE ON RUNWAYS ONLY FOR  MAGAZINES. AND THE UNKNOWN LABEL REALLY WORN

14-If you were a retailer, would you wear your own designs or shop in your own store ? or where would you shop?
OF COURSE, AS A RETAILER

15-If you won a $200,000,000 power ball (lottery), what is the first thing you would buy or do?
SEE ABOVE, BUILDING A CONTEMPORARY HOUSE, BUYING A PALAZZO OR ABBEY HIGH ON THE SEA AND A PENTHOUSE WITH A ROOF GARDEN, IF THE "TIME MACHINE" STILL DOESN'T EXIST YET. OPENING A FOUNDATION OR MUSEUM HELPING ARTISTS AND RESEARCH PEOPLE

16-If you could invite up to 4 people for dinner, who would they be…dead or alive?
FOR THE MOMENT PROUST, COCTEAU AND PHILIPPE JULLIAN , BECAUSE OF THE BOOK I'M READING OR JUST READ…. OR DEAR CLOSE FRIENDS OF MINE WHO HAS PASSED AWAY TOO YOUNG IN THE PAST TWENTY/THIRTY YEARS

 

17-What is your favorite movie /or movie star?
DEPENDS ON THE MOMENT
RIGHT NOW VANESSA REDGRAVE IN "BLOW-UP" OR KAY KENDALL IN "THE RELUCTANT DEBUTANTE", ELINA LABOURDETTE IN "LES DAMES DU BOIS DE BOULOGNE", ITALIAN MOVIES FROM 50/60, ANOUK AIMÉE IN "8 1/2", RAMPLING IN "THE DAMNED", "MANGANO" IN "THEOREMA"

18-What is the one thing you would change about yourself?
EVERYTHING

19-Whose opinion do you value most?
MY WIFE AND MY FRIEND OLIVIER SAILLARD

20-What store or which designer do you most like to shop in or wear ?
RALPH LAUREN, MARGIELA, COMME DES GARCONS

21-What’s your take on magazines, books versus the internet?
PREFER PAPER FOR SENSUALITY BUT FIND MORE & MORE WONDERFUL DOCUMENTS ON INTERNET

22-Do you have a dream collaborator?
I DON'T THINK SO

23-What is your crowning achievement thus far in your career?
I LIKE MY NEW LIFE IN BETWEEN STAGE COSTUMES DESIGNING, HOTELS DECORATING, EXHIBITION CURATING AND SCENOGRAPHIES AFTER YEARS OF FASHION AND ALSO TRAIN/TRAMWAY DESIGNING

24-What’s your music library like?
NONE, ONLY CLASSIC RADIO

25-What and where is your favorite meal?
ANYTHING WITH GARLIC, OLIVE AND OLIVE OIL, CHEESE, GOOD WINE
AND OF COURSE LOBSTER, CAVIAR, FOIE GRAS
LOVE "JULES CESAR" RESTAURANT IN ARLES (I'LL RUSH THERE IN TWO MINUTES AS SOON AS THIS ANSWERING WILL BE OVER !!!) IN PARIS I'M VERY FOND OF "MEURICE" AND "BRISTOL" BAR AND RESTAURANTS, LE "VOLTAIRE" AND "PETRELLE" TOO

Marc-Antoine Barrois.... The Men's Couturier

For the sartorially inclined there are two terms that are the “high-water mark” in the world of made to measure fashion. They are haute couture, if one is of the female persuasion, and bespoke, if one wears a suit as their uniform of choice. The fact is simply that it is just a matter of semantics and habit that each euphemism is applied in these particular ways. The meanings are very much the same as they both “say” custom made and both speak to the aspects of being made by hand and customized to a specific client.

Today is about a young gentleman who uses the terminology in a most 21^st century manner as he has labeled his body of work/collection and profession as Couturier for Men.  The clothes are of the most modern yet fabled designs and utilize all the textbook methods of the art but Marc-Antoine Barrois has massaged them in the most contemporary of ways that befit the most discerning of clientele.

It only makes sense that this treasure can be found in the home of Haute Couture.  Have a look at what an “haute couturier” has to say about fashion and life!

1-What is the most treasured possession in your wardrobe?

Some of my first collections …  vintage garments despite I am not wearing it anymore.

2-What is your most sterling trait and what trait do you treasure most in your friendships?

I am enthusiastic and curious

3-What is your bliss?

I love so much when a client is happy to wear his own suit for the first time and so sad when he doesn’t show happiness… I hope the day one is disappointed he would tell me!

4-What is your guilty secret?

Cheese ;-)

5-Where is your ideal home?

I love Paris and could live there forever as long as I keep traveling a lot. It is the perfect center of my world!

6-If you could not be a designer, what would you be

I admire talents I don’t have: I would have dreamt of being a ballet dancer or a pianist!

7-What is on your bedside table right now?

Antoine de Saint Exupery’s book “The Little Prince”. It’s always been with me, it’s my favorite book!

8-What do you wear to bed?

Kelly Calèche of Hermès

9-What if any, book are you reading now or last read?

I am between two at the moment. First is Honoré de Balzac’s “traité of Elegance” that a Canadian friend offered to me. It is really interesting. Second is my friend’s Jacqueline Pitchal roman “Mister Maybe” about improbable jet-set love story between Paris and Palm Beach…

10-What’s your advice to the “newcomer?”

Dream it, believe in it and work hard to make it happen!

11-Who or what is your inspiration/style icon?

Cary Grant in “Catch a Thief” – James Bond in most circumstances – Robert Redford as Gatsby ;-) Thought at first I have always been impressed by my grandfather’s style, really elegant, looking alike Hubert de Givenchy.

12-What is the best advice you ever received?

In my life I am acting like a sponge, taking all advices and each one is important, from my 73 years old tailor who gives me tips or Hermès’ executive officer who tells me what I should take care for the coherence of my projects to my family or friends’ advices. 

13-In 3 words or less, describe the current state of fashion.

In process

14-If you were a retailer; would you wear your own designs or shop in your own store? or where would you shop?

I love dark blue shirts& T-shirts so wherever I see one I like I buy it…

15-If you won a $200,000,000 power ball (lottery), what is the first thing you would buy or do?

I would invest $200,000,000 in my house of fashion!

16-If you could invite up to 4 people for dinner, who would they be…dead or alive?

Part of me would love a family dinner with ones I loved who are not in our world anymore but I am mostly looking towards life and would consider a dinner with Anna Wintour, Karl Lagerfeld, Steve Sadove (Saks dept. stores’ CEO) and Larry Gagosian (Contemporary art dealer & gallery owner) to explain them my history /DNA and ask them for their advices and help.

17-What is your favorite movie /or movie star?

Mary Poppins… I’ve always loved the idea to jump in a drawing and to experience any imaginary world.

18-What is the one thing you would change about yourself?

I encourage everyone to accept themselves as they are so I would change nothing… Thought with a magic wand I would make time goes by slower.

19-Whose opinion do you value most?

My opinion, my instinct or my emotions

20-What store or which designer do you most like to shop in or wear?

As I don’t have one favorite brand, I prefer concept stores with a multi brands selection like Colette.

21-What’s your take on magazines, books versus the internet?

I love paper magazines and often reproach internet for not producing their own editorials.  In my mind, the best would be a website publishing exclusive editorials and interviews/portraits every days or week and asking its readers to vote for their favorite ones that would be printed once a year in a special luxury paper issue.

22-Do you have a dream collaborator?

Personne!

23-If you could choose anyone as a client who would that be and why?

When I started doing couture for men I thought about Elton John because I would not have to channel my creativity. Today I would dream of making Cannes and Oscar’s ceremonies tuxedos for any actor or actress who would consider my work of unique pieces made to measure specially for them.

24-What’s your music library like?

Mostly classical music. I love Chopin and my favorite tubes are Brahms’ “Hungarian dances”.

25-What and where is your favorite meal?

At home when I host a dinner with friends… I love to make people I like meet each other despite their differences. I truly love crepes but my friends are getting bored of it… so I cook sauce dishes from the north of France where I am from. 
www.marcantoinebarrois.com