Alexandre Vauthier is a designer who tends to push the
envelope. Alexandre Vauthier is a designer who has expanded the vocabulary of
the Haute Couture by contributing his audacious, brazen and 21st
century fashion to its dictionary. Haute Couture celebrates the art and craft
of fashion along with unique design and construction but rarely is the concept
of sexy applied to this rarefied world. With his steamy and sensual
collections, Vauthier has amended the lexicon of Haute Couture by combing all
of the above!
Vauthier pushes the envelope season and after season … well
... okay, he shoves it when it comes to couture but he is always true to
himself and he shows us that sexy can be sensual and even erotic without
looking like trashy cheap thrills. (sic Donatellamommamia) I was told that “one
never knows how they grew up until they have grown up” and Monsieur Vauthier’s
rearing is evident here. The skills and techniques that were honed chez Mugler
and Gaultier are advantageously utilized in a collection of this ilk.
From the simplest of sexiest of jerseys to the most
amazingly innovative laser cut pony skin, we are talking hot. These are not the
clothes of wallflowers; these are the clothes of hey look at me and look what I
am wearing … and I mean that in the most complimentary way. In a business where
youth is celebrated if not assigned iconic stature, Vauthier still stands alone
as there are no cheap tricks here and make no mistake, you better have a rockin
body. Cases in point here are the excruciatingly amazingly gorgeous pearl
encrusted pieces and the astoundingly sizzling red stones dress. Vauthier puts
the HAUTE in haute couture by pressing Lesage into action and yielding
showstoppers that will endure beyond just a single red carpet.
Another... well... some more aspects of the collection are
that Vauthier seems to be able to make the clothes look like “ oh I just threw this on” but I mean it
in the best possible and maybe I mean to say they don’t look forced and they
don’t need accessorizing other than great body and simple evening shoes and bag.
If I have not mentioned his superb tailoring, then let me say that is it here
and shining through so many of the styles. Another striking moment came when I realized
that there are very few designers (ahem Raffie) who can show a grey jumpsuit
and make it so slickly sexy and inviting …… and no explanation necessary….
Mmmmmm Raffie! One more ... The deep vee
polka dot gown…. Deefirgginvine!
For the seasoned observer, this is collection that is full
of surprises and rarely disappoints. Of course it is difficult for the those so
called critics of the 3 day resume to appreciate the archival prints from
Clerici or the old world craftsmanship of the collection but suffice it to say
I tip my hat to you Alexandre on all counts!
My PS here is that the peekaboo gowns were a bit over the
top and not entirely necessary as were the shin guards but he did breathe some
new life into the bandage dress! Last observation … promise.. Amazing that when
you are fixed on the clothes you don’t even notice the models’ faces!
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