Monday, July 7, 2014

Atelier Versace Haute Couture fall 2014/15

What might have been certainly never happened.  What started out as a possible promise of a more refined and pared collection was just a tease. What Donatellamommamia did was mistake over constructed dresses for what might have passed as tasteful... at least chez Versace! After all she did proclaim “I am Versace!” To that I say poor Gianni!

Sorry to say that she is clearly deluded or had altered her drug regimen  when she thought the collection was an ode to the 50s. The only concept I was able to extrapolate from that was maybe it was the Donatellamommamia take on the “I Love Lucy” full skirt over tight pant costume that she so often wore. What I also managed to recall is that a lot of the clothes seem to look like what was envisioned as “space wear” for a movie set in the year 2020 with costumes conceived and designed in the 50’s.

So apart from the kilt double buckle closures and one legged pants or the pants cum dress scenario what’s left? To my eye just a load of dresses that are still aimed at Signoras Russian clients. There was no daywear here unless one wears satin and beads at 2 pm. There was an awful lot clothes that brought to mind Gaultier, Rolland and Vauthier. There were a lot of dresses that seem to combine incongruous elements which yielded some looks that resembled as if several dresses had been taken apart and reassembled into one.

What it boils down to is that the clothes are over constructed, over designed, over wrought and as usual pretty tacky. One has to start believing that tacky and cheap looking is the modus operandi no matter the season or collection as it consistently rears its head season after season. The silly accessories did nothing to alter that perception and the severe hair and makeup did nothing but reinforce the total over production.

Oddly there was no tailoring here which in my mid has always shown itself in all Versace collections and in its place was dressmaking of a sort. There is absolutely nothing soft about these clothes; everything is rather precise and … well... harsh! What comes to mind is objectified femininity. Even the fur pieces seem to look cheap and tawdry. My only guess is these clothes play well in the Middle East for the all lady parties which take place where the clothes cannot be worn in public. Personally... that sounds right to me.

Bottom line is simply that Ms. Versace lives in a world with mirrors that talk back to her and constantly ask “who is the fairest of them all?”  And we know what the answer is!

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