Since the
departure of Massimiliano
Giornetti, I have cast a
wary eye towards the brand that the designer cultivated and reimagined during
his tenure brand. Last season I was taken with Fulvio Rigoni’s collection but this season yields and
elicits an even stronger reaction.
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Let me
preface to say, I am not sure this collection is geared to the existing Ferragamo
customer BUT this is a collection that is designed! It is laser sharp and
created with a deft skilled hand and a discerning eye. I was first taken with
the “color blocking” which was achieved in a series of patterns rather than with
color and done in the most subtle of ways.
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Then of course there is the overall mean
clean sharp silhouette … almost minimal, not clinical, but in some ways very
chic, but nevertheless hard-edged. It’s a very lean presentation in terms of
looks but it is laser focused on daywear which in my opinion in the way to go
these days.
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So, one must
assume that a new direction has been set for the brand which will take some time
to gestate and gain a toehold at retail but hell, it is a pleasure to witness a
collection that has actually been designed, thought out and not another “me too”
moment. If I was forced to draw a comparison, I might liken it the mindset of
Akris.
Again, part
of my attraction is the subtlety that the designer has used to send the
message which IMHO is very much of the DNA of the brand. The brand is not a
screaming “look at me” brand but one of those heritage brands that has emerged
as fashion that does not lean on trend. As usual the collection is heavy on outerwear
but surprisingly lean on accessories which is a bit strange but in one respect,
that does allow you to solely focus on the clothes.
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And in a rare
moment of restrained praise I say ... I look forward to what comes next in the evolution
of the brand
