Well there is no Oscar waiting for Oscar with this
collection. Normally, I am a great fan
as I am always awed to witness a designer who has evolved for so many years and
still remains on top of his game. This
season, to me, is a very rare misstep for Mr. de la Renta.
For starters, the collection seems to be lost in time and by
that I mean what season is this? The
color palette and combinations seems to be very resort or possibly it is aiming
at the wear now aspect of its delivery cycle.
Next up, there is this issue of the hemlines which when they hover at
the knee and travel south, seem to lend an air of dowdy or possibly overly
retro. Let’s now address the prints
which are at best an extremely personal aspect for the buyer at retail or
wholesale; personally I was not loving them at all. Mr. de la Renta has always catered to his
ladies and has successfully expanded his fan base over the past couple of
decades by giving them his brand of glamor and chic. This season there seems to be an overwhelmingly
referenced tone, primarily Chanel and Prada … not so good.
One has become accustomed to always seeing the most
exquisite evening pieces from his collections and yet, this collection falls
far short of that customary expectation.
The shapes seem like Oscar but the palette and embellishments and
occasionally the lengths detract from what might have been high drama.
Even though, all of this sounds to be highly negative, there
were some beautiful pieces within the collection; it is the disappointment
which becomes so overbearing. Again,
this selection is supposed to drive sales and even though I am sure there will
be sales, I just don’t think it was what it might have been.
P.S. while I was
ecstatic to see hose being used as an accessory, the weight of the black hose
was not always working to an advantage.
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