When is the last time you looked at a menswear collection and thought of the words: dapper, natty, grown up, handsome, rakish, haberdashery, and a slew of other adjectives that are as rare a hen’s teeth for most collections.
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Let’s go a step further and speak of the casting of men... men who look like men … some men who could easily be called movie star handsome and men who actually looked natural wearing these clothes.
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Do not think these clothes are for everyone… not for a second but these clothes remind you of why there is such a thing as NYFW for menswear. I can say that the double wrap belt was a bit over used, the layering might have been a tad over the top but how many collections can make a cape look like it fits in and look like a man should or could be wearing it.
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This is a collection that needs to be dissected like a jigsaw puzzle of 1000 pieces. There is so much to be seen and yet with some much going on in each look, the potency seemed to have gotten a bit lost. One can’t argue with the color palette of browns and greys with a touch of navy and of course it doesn’t take a genius to figure out that tailoring is at the core of the collection.
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The outerwear is well … outstanding, the subtle color blocking is beautiful, the subtle pattern and color mixes as well and the very vague non imposing retro references are far from over powering but quite noticeable. Yes, he was sending out a message about our past with respect to that we are all immigrants of a sort but the over styling at times made one think “what he couldn’t pack he wore on his back” when coming to America.
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No matter what the deficits were, the end result remains that this is a men’s collection for men who want to look like men with some flair if they dare... I made a funny, or that even a simple suit can be accessorized to appear trendy and of the moment. Marinate on that if you will!
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